This was to be our last day in Cambodia.  Our flight home wasn’t scheduled until 11:30pm, so we had the whole day open.  It was the day for which we’d planned to visit the Killing Fields at Choeung Ek and the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.  I’m sure many would ask as to why we would schedule our trip to end with visits to these horrible sights; we’d asked ourselves the same question.  The answer is that it is simply necessary.  Any trip to  Cambodia should include a visit to bear witness and learn more about the genocide committed by the Khmer Rouge between 1975 and 1979.  It is estimated that as many as 3 million of Cambodia’s 8 million people had been killed.

The Killing Fields at Choeung Ek is one largest and most known of Killing Fields in Cambodia.  In the late 1980’s, significant construction had gone underway to build monument to memorialize the thousands of people were brought here to be slaughtered.

The Memorial Stupa at Choeung Ek contains the skulls and other bones of nearly 9,000 of the Khmer Rouge’s victims.  Whether by bullet or machete, many of the skulls still show evidence as to how these people died.

A tour of around the grounds brings the scene to life.  We were given audio transmitters that help describe the various locations on the property, often with stories and testimony by some who’ve witnessed the atrocities.

Although many of the victims had been unearthed for preservation or proper burial, mass graves still give a chilling reminder of what happened here.

First hand evidence that many people had died here was easily seen as we walked.  We were told to mind our footsteps as bones, teeth and clothing of some of the victims still poked through the earth.

One of the most emotional sites on our tour was The Killing Tree.  It was here that babies and small children were killed by smashing them against the tree as their mothers watched.  Loud music was played to drown out the screaming and crying.  When the reality of what had happened at Choeung Ek was discovered following the fall of the Khmer Rouge, the Killing Tree was still stained with the blood of the children.  Today, many tourists leave behind “lucky” bracelets received at the temples symbolizing the pain everyone feels for these young souls.

After finishing our tour at the killing fields, we had short ride over to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.  This was the location where Pol Pot’s regime transformed the Tuol Svay Prey high school into the Khmer Rouge’s most notorious prison.  S-21, as it was called, was one of the places where thousands of victims (peasants, workers, engineers, doctors, professionals, students, monks, etc.) were imprisoned, and ultimately exterminated with their wives and children.   Walking through the the converted class rooms, it was easy to imagine the horror these people experienced.

We ended our tours with our taxi driver, Sva patiently waiting to return us to the hotel.  It was definitely a quiet and solumn ride.  One of the most difficult facts to digest regarding what we’d seen was that all of this happened in modern times; it happened in MY lifetime.  Knowing the extent of the atrocities, I was hesitant to ask Sva if he had personally been effected.  As nearly 1/3 of the Cambodia population had been exterminated, it is pretty easy to surmise that everyone here has a personal connection.  Sva lost his brother.

***We encourage all who read this to learn more of the atrocities committed by Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge.  You could start by visiting cekillingfield.org.

The sun rose steadily over the city of Siem Reap breaking ground on a new day in this exotic land.  This day came with few expectations.  Despite receiving some pressure from yesterday’s tour guide and driver to secure them for a trip to Ton Le Sap Lake  (Southeast Asia’s largest fresh water lake) or the Kompong Phluk Forest, we opted to take on the day a little more leisurely.  We did consider finding our own way to Ton Le Sap or perhaps a helicopter ride around the temple areas.  However, the day ultimately was dominated by foot travel to the markets (to shop for souvenirs), Pub Street for lunch and dinner, and simply lounging around the hotel pool.

Hospitality really should be the word of the day.  When we returned from lunch we were greeted with an ice cold hand towel lightly scented with lime.  An hour later sitting poolside after a quick dip, hotel staff brought out some refreshments — an iced bowl with glasses of refreshing coconut water and a sweet ginger citrus tea.  Oh, and hot, fresh banana fritters.  Later that afternoon Beth and I enjoyed a complimentary 1 hour Khmer style massage.  All wonderful things, but what really makes our stay memorable are the traditional greetings (palms together, slight bow) and the smiling faces of all of the staff.  It was they who deserve much applause and respect.

With a little sadness, we will check out from The Golden Temple Hotel in the morning and leave Siem Reap.  Tomorrow, Phnom Penh.

Today was our most anticipated day of this entire odyssey.  We hired a driver and an English speaking guide to show us the important sights for the day.  It turned out to be a wise decision considering our unfamiliarity with the surroundings.  Additionally, the guide gave us a lot history and perspective, and occasionally a better vantage point for photos.  We were to take trip back in time to when kings erected massive temple complexes to honor their gods and to serve as capitals and strategic military posts.   Cambodia’s Angkor period is defined by the 6 century ruling of the Khmer Empire during which many temples were erected.

TA PROHM  Ta Prohm — translated to “ancestor Brahma” —  was built between the 12th and 15th century.  Brahma was the god who created knowledge and universe.  Following the fall of the Khmer Empire in the 17th century, the temple was largely abandoned and began its decay.  In the 21st century, many foreign nations began to see the archaeological, historical and cultural importance in Ta Prohm, as well as other Angkor temples.  Money began to flow into construction projects headed by companies from different nations around the world in an attempt to preserve and/or restore many of these historical gems.  Ta Prohm also has a little significance in pop culture as it was the prime location for much of the filming of Tomb Raider starring Angelina Jolie.  Some have even nick-named it the Tomb Raider Temple.

Nick-named the Angelina Jolie Tree.

Lets look a little closer…

What did the Khmer know about the Stegosaurus?

I feel as though we’re being watched? 

Outside the temple was a band of landmine survivors playing traditional Cambodian music.  During Cambodia’s turbulent history in the 1970’s and 1980’s landmines had been placed throughout the country by different governments and factions including Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge.  The Cambodian Mine Action Centre estimates that there may be as many as four to six million mines and other unexploded ordnances in Cambodia.  Undetected mines still claim live every year.  In 2013, 22 people were killed and 89 were injured one third of which were children.

 

TA KEO  Ta Keo was a temple built by the Khmer starting near the end of the 10th century.

 

ANGKOR THOM  Angkor Thom — translates literally to to “Great City” — was the last and most enduring capital city of the Khmer empire.  Completed in the 13th century,  this massive temple complex covers nearly 3.5 square miles and contains many temples; the most impressive being Bayon.  Bayon is most noted for its 216 larger-than-life smiling faces carved in stone.  Other breathtaking sights include the Phimeanakas temple and the Elephant Terrace.

Elephant Terrace

Phimeanakas

 

Images from Bayon

We were almost literally melting in the SE Asian heat!

ANGKOR WAT  Angkor Wat — meaning “Capital Temple” — is arguably the most impressive of all of Cambodia’s Temples.  As it stands it is the largest religious monument in the world.  It was originally constructed as a Hindu temple in the early 12th century, but had been gradually transformed into a Buddhist temple by the end of the 12th century.

With all of our anticipation on visiting the temple sites, we honestly felt a little overwelmed.  Having a guide was helpful, but there still seemed to be a sense of urgency to get ALL of the shots — partially because of the heat, and partially the crowds.  I felt a little disappointed leaving without some sense of heightened spirituality.  If I were to make this journey again, I would probably plan to spend 2 whole days among the temples.  One for looking though the lens; and one for looking through the eyes.  Despite that little gripe, it truly was an amazing day.

Well it appears that our time by the sea is coming to a close.  Throughout the year leading up to this SE Asia adventure, we had often overlooked the enjoyment that we’d get staying in Sihanoukville.  Sitting on the beach and swimming in the warm waters of the Pacific was merely a strategic plan for resting and recovering from any ill effects of flying for 24 hours.  As it turns out, this leg of the trip will certainly resonate as happy memories.

I unintentionally awoke extra early this particular morning.  It did provide an opportunity to capture some more quiet photos.

Exploring down the beach just beyond the Otres 2 resort area, I had found another world.  Much like most tourist areas, we only get to see the facade which always appears clean, friendly, and inviting.  Behind the scenes or around the corner often present a different reality.  On this particular walk, I strolled into what seemed to be a seaside garbage dump.  Trash of all kinds (mostly discarded water bottles) were strewn about as though they belonged there.  I’m certain that most of it had been delivered by the tides.  It saddened me a little to see such a negative bi-product of man polluting a paradise such a this.

A few dilapidated houses also sat along a small river which emptied right into the sea about 1/2 mile from our resort.  It seemed obvious that those who lived there scavenged to help make ends meet and they took no more than what was useful.

Enjoying our last hours of serenity on the beach, we remembered we had a promise to fullfil.  Hang was a 10 year old boy in the body of a 5 year old and he sold bracelets, headbands and such.  And this kid was sharp!  We’d pinky promised a few days earlier that we would buy something and he wouldn’t let us forget.  We pick out a few things and then negotiated a price.  We played rock, paper, scissors to fine tune how much I would pay, and this kid smoked me in 4 straight rounds; I’m certain that I overpaid significantly.

 

With this phase of our trip completed, we took a tuk tuk to the Sihanoukville airport in order to catch a plane to Siem Reap.  I took a few photos to help show a truer representation of how many here lived.

For the short 40 minute flight, we had hoped that it was a prop plane and that we’d be surrounded by goats and chickns.  I guess you could say we were a little dispointed.

We would just like to say, The Golden Temple Hotel knows what customer service is all about.  Upon arrival, they asked us to sit on long comfortable couches while the took care of our reservation.  They then brought us ice cold wash clothes, iced green tea and Khmer style peanuts.  Then came the fresh fruit, sticky rice and complementary beverage.  Before escorting us to our room they presented us each with a traditional scarf as a gift.

Following a quick shower, Beth and I ventured a few blocks into the center of the city in search of the Night Market and Pub Street.  Within a few minutes we immersed in a world of food, booze, music and fun.  Restaurants and bars lined the street; food vendors of all sorts sat on sidewalks and curbs.  Although intrigued, we didn’t muster the courage to try any of the fried grasshoppers, crickets, roaches or tarantula.  It’s important to leave some experiences for a return trip.

Although more time is necessary to explore the markets and Pub Street, rest was also needed for tomorrow we conquer the temples!

Enter, another quiet morning on South Pacific coast at Otres 2 Beach.   A light breakfast beside the still waters.  Based on the fact that we’ve enjoyed our breakfasts nearly alone, I would surmise that European tourists like to sleep late when vacationing.

Beth and I have always been big fans of Survivor and we were elated when we learned that the current season was being filmed in Cambodia. More specifically on the island named Koh Rong.  So, months before beginning this journey, we had dreamed of finding the beaches where the Angkor, Bayon, and Ta Kae tribes spend there 39 days.  Our journey to get there began with a 25 minute tuk tuk ride from the hotel to Ochheuteal Beach.

Having made this trip a few times in the past days, I wanted to share a glimpse of what we’d seen en route.  Because it seems to be frowned upon to photograph or film the Cambodian people, I tried to discretely capture some of what we’d seen.  The conditions many of these people live in can only be described as total squaller.   Such images certainly make you think and reflect upon your own life.

Arriving in town, the scenery returned to a more touristic environment.  It is a town that seems to devote itself to the young backpackers out in search of their own adventures.  Rooms can be rented for $8 per night; $12 if you want air conditioning.  Beer is cheap, food is cheap.  It’s a colorful place with streets lined by bars, restaurants, and guesthouses.  It sort of feels like a spring break town, but on a slightly filthier level.

We had arrived at the pier 40 minutes early where we’d catch the fast boat to Koh Rong.  Fortunately there was an open air bar on the pier where we could escape the ever intensifying rays of the sun.

We snapped a few photos of the surrounding scenery as we sipped our pops.

As the boat arrived 25 minutes late the crowds grew bigger.  By that time the temperature was well into the 90’s.  If you Googled “Cluster Fuck” and dug down deep enough, I am certain you would find a reference to the Speed Ferry Cambodia loading and unloading procedures.  Two hundred or more eager young travelers with their oversized rucksacks all gathered near the point of embarkation at the same point and time hundreds more needed to exit the boat.  Beth and I thought long and hard about whether we wanted to be part of the chaos under the scorching sun simply to indulge our desire and hope of finding a particular beach on Cambodia’s largest island.  We opted to skip and just get some lunch by the beachside.  The fried rice was good; the margarita pizza, not so much.  One thing I have learned from this trip is to never use a restroom located “out back”.  You will see things that you shouldn’t see.

Our tuk tuk needed to refuel on our return trip.

Despite having failed to reach our intended destination for the day, it is difficult to end the day without feelings of appreciation and gratitude.

 

We awoke in the morning to the early light in Phnom Penh (PP) and the sounds of roosters crowing in the streets below our 9th floor hotel room.   By 6 a.m. the streets were already abuzz with activity.  Although the urge to shore up our batteries with a little more sleep, there is a level of excitement that we could hardly contain.  So many things that need to be discovered.

Downstairs awaited a huge spread of Khmer and Western breakfast options.  We enjoyed some exotic fruits including papaya and dragonfruit.  My favorite was the spicy noodle soup that can be found in many Southeast Asian cultures.

Needing a few supplies, we were advised to walk a few blocks to the Russian Market.  Wow!  What an overwhelming immersion into Cambodian culture.  The market was truly amazing, and at the same time, quite frightening.  Throughout the labyrinth of stalls you could find everything you’d need such as clothing, antiques, motorcycle parts, tools, “groceries”, etc.  I really wished that we had pictures to show, but strangely the forethought and opportunity didn’t arise.

Beth and I came to this exotic land with the intention of doing some adventurous eating.  We always joked about how food wasn’t authentic unless you bought it out of someone’s trunk (Jamaica).  Well, one trip through the meat and fish section of the Russian Market may have changed the entire scope of this vacation.  The sights and sounds were quite horrifying; too much for most western sensibilities.  Meat being carried in large clear bags and being butchered right before you.  Fish, scary fish, being cleaned on the stone floor next to the merchant’s feet and then put up on the table for sale.  Sanitary preparation was certainly not on anyone’s mind.  The smell?  Although tolerable, it unfortunately set the tone on what we imagined every time a new food odor would present itself.  Having had enough of this invasion to the senses we worked to maneuver our way out of this “food” area.  At every turn we found new horrors; a quiet feeling of panic began to creep in until we found our exit.

Back on the street we found the traffic in PP to be completely dangerous and out of control.  Cars, Trucks, tuk tuks, and a million scooters all whirled around in a way that seemed insanely choatic and yet had a synergy that seemed to work.  Regardless, crossing the street was usually a harrowing experience.  (video insert)

We did see some pretty nice things on our little walk about.

 

By 10:30 a.m. Beth and I were ready to take the “3 hour” taxi ride to Sihanoukville (SV).  Perhaps the slower pace of the touristy beach/backpacker town might help us ease into this massive culture shock.  The cab ride started out relatively uneventful.  My seatbelt was probably a little below normal safety standards, but I was certain that it wouldn’t be needed… yeah, right.  The taxi driver, who spoke NO English, was quite nice and hospitable.  He presented us with something to eat during the drive.  It took a couple of hours to muster the courage to try what I would compare to a rice based tamale.  We tasted it, but that was enough.  :\

The drive itself was long, but fascinating.  There were a lot of interesting sights to see along the way.  Leaving the bustle of PP, the city began to give way to a more rural atmosphere with smatterings of light industrial centers.  Tall, straight palm trees; flat rice patties; dirty white cows in the fields and on the roadside.  Because of the intermittent torrents of rain, we didn’t really stop for photo opportunities.

The “Family Truckster”, Cambodia style!

A few hours into the journey, the driver required a stop to use the bangkon.  I know we call them restrooms in the U.S., but there was no resting in there!

As we continued west, the driver’s style went from casually aggressive to significant urgency.  We passed EVERYTHING!!!  Cars, trucks, and semi-tractor trailers carrying petroleum… we passed them all.  We passed them EVERYWHERE!!!  Up hills, hidden driveways, blind curves and oncoming traffic were no match for us.  As the weather worsened, you would have thought our force-field got stronger.  This quiet little gentleman was driving as though he could feel a serious case of the scoots coming on.  I do recall, out of instinct, asking Beth how far apart her contractions were. (insert video)  Thank goodness for proper working seat belts… umm, wait.

The weather cleared as we got closer to the coast.  The terrain began to extend upward as “smoke” covered mountains began to close in on the highway.  The traffic lessened and the scenery got more beautiful.

Our hotel, the Ren Resort, was located in the more secluded Otres 2 Beach resort area.  Secluded is an understatement.  To reach the many beautiful hotels at Otres 2 it was necessary to drive down the roughest, dirtiest road imaginable.  Weaving around the small ponds and craters in our path, we had finally reached our destination.  The Ren Resort well exceeded our expectations.  The beauty, the cleanliness, the hospitality; this place truly served as our oasis.

The small private beaches located on the seaside of each hotel were dotted with palm trees and beach lounge chairs.  The ocean?  Calm, clean, warm… inviting.

On the close of our first day, we reflect that this day may have been a lot about learning.  Who we are doesn’t always coincide with who we think we are or who we want to be.  Perhaps there are limits to what we consider as adventure?  Perhaps we bit off more than we WANT to chew?  I can’t honestly answer those questions at this point in the journey, but we certainly can enjoy pondering such things with cocktail in hand as the sun sets in the western sky over the Gulf of Thailand.