Tanzania – Day 5 – Tarangire National Park

This morning was another early rise.  Peter, from Agama Tours, picked us up promptly at 7 am.  Our vehicle, an extended Toyota Land Cruiser outfitted with a removable top and plenty of sliding windows  for proper wildlife viewing.  These Land Cruisers are the only vehicles tough enough for the rugged terrain of the Serengeti.

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After a quick stop within the city of Arush to pick up some bottled water and other provisions, we headed out toward Tarangire National Park.  The drive was a little long so we passed the time by sight-seeing, writing, sudoku and napping.

Driving west on a well paved, asphalt highway we began to see the vast open spaces of the Tanzanian grasslands.  You might expect a lot of green, but because we are in the dry season all of the ground cover is a light yellowish tan broken up by sage colored shrubs and small trees.  At this point, since we are still a distance from the parks, we have not yet seen any wild animals.  Only frequent herds of cows usually led by a Massai teenagers.

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On this first day of our safari we were joined by a good looking young couple who are out for just a 1 day excursion.  Minel (Spain) and Bruna (Portugal) were a couple of medical students who are spending a month volunteering their time in local villages.

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As we entered the Tarangerie National Park, the nations sixth largest national park, we were all brimming with excitement to see some real wildlife.  The first animal we happened upon was a lonely old wildebeest.  Wow!  We took nearly a hundred pictures and joked that he had a rope holding him there just for our viewing.  Peter must have been laughing inside for he knew better of what was to come.

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And yes, there was so much more to come.  I really was expecting most of the wildlife to be elusive and difficult to find, but that is furthest from the truth.  For the next several hours, we were inundated with new and exciting scenes at every turn.

Here are some of the notable pictures of the animals and scenery as we saw them:

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IMG_0729Young impalla

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IMG_0790Female lion stalking its prey

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IMG_0773Velvet monkey

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IMG_0876Male and female ostrich

20160725_144325Baboons were always fun to watch

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It was often obvious when there was something unique to see.  As many as 20 or so Land Crusiers would line up to watch.

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20160725_155531A little added adventure

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Tanzania – Day 4 – Transition

Today was all about getting to Arusha, the starting point for our safari.  We needed to start early to catch the ferry, to catch the cab, to catch the plane.  Probably one of my least favorite places in Tanzania is the ferry dock.  Huge crowds.  And so many people to carry so few bags.  Ten thousand shillings… ten thousand shillings… ten thousand shillings for everyone!  Oh, that’s not enough?  Twenty thousand shillings!  I later found out that I was way over-tipping.  It was difficult dealing with the onslaught of “help” so early in the morning, but we managed.

After we made the crossing to Dar es Salaam (DAR) and the mainland, we found George (our first taxi driver).  It was nice seeing him waiting for us because he was quite friendly and spoke really good English.  As it turned out, we had more than enough time to make our transitional flight so George took us to an upper-end hotel on the peninsula for breakfast.  The crepes were excellent and the views, spectacular!

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Following breakfast we took a detour through one of the more impoverished neigborhoods of DAR.  Unlike the slums we are used to seeing in Detroit where the streets often seem desolate, these were packed with people and activity.  It is difficult to imagine the conditions that so many have actually grown accustomed to living in.

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After a long day of travel, we transitioned from the coastal region of Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam to the country’s interior on the northeast side of Tanzania.  Our flight out of the old, primitive airport of DAR took us to the remote airport in Arusha.  Although it is within a few minutes of the cities 1.5 million people, it certainly gave the impression that we were deep within the heart of Africa.  The trip was particularly unique as it was the first flight I’ve had on a commercial twin-engine turboprop airplane that was very capable of carrying 78 deodorantly deficient people.  Taylor and I laughed about how some many of these passengers must have been nicknamed “Bo”.

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Our final hotel before the safari was the Mount Meru Hotel, a five-star all the way — the finest in all of Arusha.  We engaged in a little downtime by the pool and then a delicious dinner at one of their fine restaurants.  Dad ordered the chef’s beef stew with ugali on the side.  Ugali is somewhat considered a national dish in Tanzania and is often served with beef, chicken, or fish prepared in different ways.  Its essentially a thick porridge made of corn meal and has the appearance and texture of a large dumpling, perhaps.  It’s taste was of bland, finely ground grits and strangely reminded us of unsalted cauliflower.

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We ended the evening with a lot of emotions.  Taylor was feeling homesick and missed Paul; I was missing Beth.  But after a little video chat with our loved ones, we had felt better.

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Tanzania – Day 3 – Zanzibar, The Other Side

Our final full day on Zanzibar Island was upon us and we had actually left ourselves without a plan.  I guess we assumed that some jetlag recovery time would keep us settled in close to the hotel pool and beach, but that isn’t how the day went.  The night before I messaged my amateur travel agent and love of my life, Beth, for some ideas.  And as always, she came through with a good one — an ATV tour out of Kiwengwa on the other side of the island.

As always, it was very easy to hire a taxi to drive us where ever we needed to go for the day.  On the one and a half hour drive across Zanzibar’s interior, we saw the landscape change from the congested and touristy Stone Town to a more rural setting.  We had learned along the way about the islands 3 forms of industry:  Stone Town provided mostly industrial careers; the interior was predominantly for agriculture; and the coastlines were all about fishing.  Regardless, its very obvious that these people work hard to maintain any sort of living.

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Enroute we came across a couple of Polisi check points.  Normally we think of these checkpoints for drunk driving prevention, but here they put the importance on assuring your license, insurance and registration are up to date.  Our driver didn’t have a current sticker on his license plate and was expecting that they would mail him a ticket.

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Finally reaching the small village of Kiwengwa, it was time for lunch.  Dad and Taylor must have been especially hungry as they had slept through breakfast.  We were taken to a place known as Obama Beach Bar which was supposed to have really good pizza.  As far as pizza goes, it wasn’t too bad.

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This place was sandwiched between dozens of “resorts” that seem to especially cater to Italians on holiday.  I put “resorts” in parentheses because they all are a little more rustic than what I would qualify as a resort.

Hanging out at the bar and on the beach were a dozen or so Massai warriors in the traditional clothing.  Some played billiards (I should have gotten a picture) while others lounged around, but they were all very interested in our presence there.  They operated a small stand selling some handmade crafts and jewelry; certainly they wanted us to come and purchase there wares.  But they were very friendly and willing to pose for a few photos so we took some time to purchase a few items.

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Because we waited until the final hour to call to reserve our places on the ATVs, they were fully booked for the day.  “Hakuna matata” (no worries) our driver knew a local guy who could squeeze in as long as we were willing to ride two up.

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20160723_180705Connor actually drove most of the time.

Well, from what we read on Trip Advisor the original company received nothing but favorable ratings from there customers.  I don’t think the “local guy” we used was listed on trip advisor.  Our group had four machines and all were pretty much complete crap.  One Italian girl had about 4 incidences where her ATV would stall out.   And then, hers quit because a battery cable snapped which was only a short delay because the company owner and his employee (who led us on an old 150 cc motorbike) seemed to have the necessary tools and know-how to make emergency repairs.  But then we began having issues with the ATV that Connor and I were riding — the chain kept popping off the sprockets.  After about four times, the reason became apparent.  The bearings on the rear axle were completely shot.  Hakuna matata!  They had a new set of bearing and the rudimentary tools with them to fix it up.  Well after about an hour, the repair didn’t exactly work as planned so the remainder of the tour Connor and I got towed.  Honestly, I look at this setback as part of the adventure.

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20160723_171818Spectators for the repair.

The ATV tour took through 3 different villages all with different levels of tough living conditions.  Some lived in grass huts without electricity, while others were in clay houses, no water.  And then some in brick and clay.

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Despite the harsh conditions one thing was certain, the beautiful little kids made the best of the situations which they were born into.  The appreciation they had for a simple little cookie or lollipop was quite inspiring.

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20160723_180506The ride back.

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Tanzania – Day 2 – Stone Town, Zanzibar

Having finally settled in and plowing through some really good zzz’s, Taylor and I were awoken by the 5:30 am Adhan (Islamic call to prayer) being chanted over loud speakers.  I have seen and heard this though various media sources before, but never in person.  Because the nearest mosque is almost directly across the street, it was really, really loud.  If I lived here , I would probably need to convert to Islam so that I wouldn’t be pissed about being awoken in that manner everyday.  But since I am merely a tourist in search of adventure, it was pretty damn cool.

Breakfast was served from the main hotel building down the street.  My dad and I left the kids back at the apartment as they were more interested in sleep than food.  It was the typical continental breakfast, except with their own Zanzibari flare.  We enjoyed fresh mango, pineapple, passion fruit, local breads, and some “beef sausage”.  They also had the typical omelette station.  Although it was difficult to get to the regular coffee between the time it was brewed and the time it was gone, they did have a big cistern of the “local coffee”.  Served in the little shot-glass sized cups much like Turkish coffee, it was a little stronger than regular coffee but had a wonderful spiced taste with hints of cinnamon and cardamom.

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As the breakfast was pretty decent, the setting and views were quite spectacular.  With Stone Town situated on the Western side of Zanzibar Island facing the mainland, the ocean is generally quite calm here.  Along the beach are dozens of anchored small boats used for charter and fishing.

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Back in the Freddie Mercury apartment at the Freddie Mercury House we spent the rest of the morning letting the kids wake up at their own pace.  Oh… Freddie Mercury?  A little know fact, Freddie Mercury was actually born in Stone Town, Zanzibar — the locals all seem quite proud of it.  And the workers at the hotel believe that it was here, in our apartment, that he was born.

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We spent much of the day wandering the streets of Stone Town taking in the sights and fending off (or trying to) the advances of anyone with something to sell.

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We were able to find our way to a local market that was popular for locals and tourists alike.  There, we had met a friendly young gentleman (and also his cousin) who spent the next couple of hours showing us through the market and other highlights of the town.  For some reason, I was misguided into thinking they were simply being helpful and courteous, but we received a proper shakedown for cash when we were done.  In total, I think I handed them about 90,000 TZ schillings ($45), but, honestly, it was actually worth every penny.

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IMG_0603Maybe a new look for me?

I thought it was necessary to stroll through the meat and fish section of the market simply for the sensory experience.  The sights of fresh meat and fish being butchered in the stalls with flies landing on pretty much everything; it really was quite unappealing and made you appreciate such agencies as the USDA and Michigan Health Department.  And although the attack on the olfactory senses was direct and offensive, it actually was like a pleasant trip to Kroger as compared to what I have witnessed in Cambodia.

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Following the market we were led to the East African Slave Trade Exhibit.  Once again, my journeys have taken me to see some of the darker sides of humanity.  The atrocities involving slavery that have taken place here and other sights throughout the world are staggering.  We were taken down and shown the crowded cave-like slave chambers where as many as 75 people were stored for months until sold.  Many here died in of dehydration, malnutrition and disease as they were packed so tightly they would often have to lay on top each other to sleep.  To learn a little more about the East African slave trade and the exhibit click here.

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Following the tour, we worked our way back toward the hotel through narrow winding streets.   Here are a few of the things we had seen along the way:

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IMG_0646OSHA approved scaffolding?

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After a short rest up in the apartment and trip down to the beach for the 6:25 pm sunset we headed off toward one of my most anticipated attractions in Zanzibar — the Forodhani Gardens night food market.  Essentially after night fall, dozens of food vendors come out, set up their stands, and sell all kinds of local delicacies.  You could purchase skewers of chicken, beef, liver or lobster.  All are served with ‘”chips” (french fries) and a squirt of homemade ketchup and hot sauce.  We also found some of the best chicken shawarma I’d ever eaten.

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But the one thing that I had been most excited to try was what they call Zanzibar Pizza.  I certainly wouldn’t describe it as pizza, but it was really fantastic.  Its prepared by spreading out a little roll of dough; filling it with various meats, vegetables; add a little mayo and an egg; stir it all together; fold over the sides and then throw it on a hot round skillet.  Everyone of us would tell you, it was amazing!  And for dessert, they make them with Nutella, chocolate and various fresh tropical fruits.

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Tanzania – Day 1 – Arrival

The flight from Amsterdam to Nairobi was to be aboard the new Boeing 787 (the Dreamliner).  It was nice a plane, but honestly, it was just another plane filled with people of all types sharing one common thing… a lack of deodorant use.

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We arrived on the African continent with little fanfare, grandeur, shock or awe.  The touchdown at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in Nairobi was well before sunrise so there really wasn’t much to see from the plane.

With a connection to Dar es Saalam in a few hours later that morning it made no sense for us to venture outside the airport.  Besides the time constraints, we have also developed (from somewhere) an impression that Nairobi was not the safest place to be.  I believe there was a terror attack on a shopping mall a few years ago that left dozens of people dead.  Normally I might throw a little caution to the wind, but this time I feel the need to be a little more vigilant in looking after my little blonde haired princess.

Our final flight to reach Dar es Salaam was short an uneventful except for the awesome sighting of Mt. Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest mountain.  Poking through the layer of clouds, you could see all of its glory which drove the reality that we have arrived at a place where many adventures had taken place.  We will certainly find our own adventures on this trip.

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We disembarked the plane and entered the small, outdated airport with poor ventilation and air conditioning.  It was everything I would have hoped to find in an East African airport.  The VISA application process was a bit confusing, but certainly not a deterrent.  After paying our $100 per person fee, we received our VISAs , collected ALL of our luggage and headed for the exit.  Outside the airport doors was a scene much like what you’d find in any other lesser developed country.  Hundreds of taxi drivers all begging for your fare.

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We met George, our driver, who was to take us to the docks where we would take a ferry to Zanzibar.  Having 3 hours to kill we first drove to the port  to buy our tickets.  For an extra $25 per person we were able to upgrade to “Royal Class”.  Afterward, George took us to an really nice upscale hotel restaurant which probably no African could afford.  Although my usual desire is to seek out the traditional or exotic food, it was kind of nice for all of us after 2 long days of travel to choose from a typical American style menu.

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Returning to the port we were met with a swarm of young black men, all dressed in yellow florescent vests, piling up around the car vying for our business.  It was very intimidating knowing that we all had to get out and walk through the craziness.  Everyone of them wanted to carry our bags, show us the easy route, and make sure we got to the right boat.    It was insanely chaotic, and although I was feeling quite annoyed and a little overwhelmed, I didn’t really feel a sense of danger — I still kept Taylor within my reach.

Reaching the point of embarkation, we were confronted with a big problem — all of our tickets were dated for the following day.  We were told to exit the port and go back to the ticket office to exchange the tickets, but there was concern that it would take too long and that we’d miss the boat (which already had our luggage onboard).  Fortunately, we were able to convince them to allow us onboard even with the incorrectly dated tickets.  The two hour ferry ride a bit rough, but very comfortable.

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Arriving at Stone Town, Zanzibar Island, we had more confusion and more herds of people to work our way through in order to get our luggage and clear customs.  I’m not entirely certain why Zanzibar puts you through the whole immigration process as it is part of the same country of Tanzania.

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A short taxi ride through the streets of Stone Town and we’d arrived at our first hotel, The Tembo House.  After nearly 48 hours of travel, we were all ready for a place to drop our bags, a hot shower and a place to sleep horizontally.

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Tanzania – Day 0.5 – Amsterdam Layover

After a 7 1/2 hour flight for our first leg,  we touched down in Amsterdam a little before noon.   During the trip’s planning stages,  I was very excited about the prospect of a 10 hour layover in the old city.   It had been several years since I’d been here,  so I thought it would be nice to spend 6 or 8 hours hoofing around the city centrum, taking a few pics, eating some herring or croquettes  and admiring old world charm.

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Well we were forewarned, it was going to be a HOT day in the Netherlands.  With the temperature hovering around 90 degrees,  it was a real challenge maintaining enthusiasm to push our sleep-deprived bodies too far.

We did manage to make it over to Dam Square for some good Dutch food and people watching.  But by 4 o’clock we were all spent and ready to take the train back to Sciphol Airport and grind out the remaining two hours of layover in the comfort of air conditioning.

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Tanzania – Day 0.0 – Fulfilling a Dream

AFRICA. Merely reading or saying the word conjures up many different images in the minds of anyone with an imagination. Lions, elephants, gorillas, rhino are the first thoughts for many. Others imagine the scorching heat and drifting sands of the Sahara or the lush green jungles of the Congo. Those with a more sympathetic heart might instinctively think of the poverty, starvation, and famine. And still others may imagine civil wars, tribal battles and bloodshed commanded at the whims of evil warlords.

When I say the word and think of Africa, my mind’s eye shows me a hugely diverse continent with many different cultures, people, geographies, and ecosystems. Admittedly, I am not an avid reader. I believe that I would like to be, but I simply lack the patience to trudge through books over so many long hours – perhaps it’s a bit of the old ADD or simply ants-in-the-pants and don’t like sitting for too long. Consequently, I haven’t amassed a great knowledge of Africa (or any other place for that matter) through the thousands of wonderful texts that exist on every subject of the continent. I wouldn’t call myself ignorant, but certainly limited to what I’ve learned through television, movies, newspapers, and Google searches. So when thinking of Africa, I can envision vast wide open spaces with large herds of antelope or wildebeest thundering over dusty plains as I’ve seen on the old nature shows when I was  young. I can see the lions, cheetahs, or hyenas stalking the slower animals of the herd like what’s shown on the National Geographic Channel. I can imagine crowded, chaotic and possibly violent cities like Mogadishu in the movie Blackhawk Down . One thing is certain, I expect to be thrown way out of my comfort zone but in the process be rewarded with a life changing experience.

Over the past year, many have asked, “why Africa?” or “Tanzania? Is that in Africa? Why?” Well, there a certainly a few of reasons. The first, being this increasing urge to see all parts of the planet. Wanderlust is the popular word that many are using today. I’m not entirely certain that this is where I’m at, but I am certainly feeling a strong desire to set out on adventures and developing lasting memories through sharing awesome experiences with others. “With others” I think is the key. I don’t believe that I would have the same level of excitement for the journey if I were to walk it alone. Somewhat related, I’ve also found that enjoy the hell out of taking some time, putting pen to paper, and jotting down my observations, my thoughts, my dreams. I lack the patience to sit and read, but for some reason, I find serenity in writing. And a trip such as this provides me with a lot to write about. As accountant, it seems that I need to go a little out of my way to find some creative outlet.

Now reviewing what I just wrote, I guess my first couple of reasons don’t really answer the question “why Africa?”. They more likely answer “why travel so far?”. I guess the real reason is to fulfil a dream. No, it’s never really been my dream to go to the dark continent. It’s never truly been on my bucket list. Looking back through my childhood and formative years, I can remember many things. I remember my parents working very hard to provide a comfortable living for my sister and I. My mom mostly kept the home in tip-top shape with an unrelenting cleaning schedule. She also created a perpetual list of home improvement projects for my dad to complete after his long days at work. Not to say that our family wasn’t about having fun — it was– but we worked hard. One of my dad’s favorite hobbies (and there have been a lot) has always been reading. Although, many of the books found throughout the house have been about guns, photography, history and such, it was almost always certain that one could find on the kitchen table or in the living room a book about African big game. Books such as “Death in the Long Grass” and “Death in Silent Places”, both written by Peter Capstick, which were about the elusive man-eaters and the men who hunted them. He had books by Theodore Roosevelt about his adventures in the African bush, as well as books about elephants, rhinos and the ever-deadly cape buffalo. Back in those days, Christmas gifts or birthday gifts were easy. We could always find books or other things such as elephants or rhinos sculpted out of leather.

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Throughout the years, spending time with my dad, he never really expressed desire to go shoot an elephant, rhino or anything of that sort. Killing the animal for the sake of having a trophy wasn’t terribly appealing. If the opportunity arose to hunt a water buffalo that could be used to feed a local tribe or a perhaps a lion that may have been stalking, killing the natives, that might have been acceptable. Besides that, the cost of any such hunt has always been well outside the reach of most ordinary men. Probably the most significant motivation for him to visit Africa has been on more of a spiritual level. He believes that deep down within all of us, whether we recognize it or not, there is a primitive drive to return to the wilderness. You might say that we are, by mere instinct, driven to return to nature. The dictionary defines wilderness as an uncultivated, uninhabited, and inhospitable region. There is also the ever present reality of danger – whereby you need to take extra measures simply to stay alive. I suppose you could find pockets of true wilderness breaking up the continuity of civilization here in the United States. But in Africa, it’s the opposite – pockets of civilization located in the vast wilderness of the continent. My dad said there was an old saying about how Africa is fast. The lions wake early and need to be fast in order to survive. Likewise, the wildebeest also needs to be fast to survive. Now of course not many would want to live under such conditions, but to see it, and to feel it… that is where we might truly develop appreciation for life. We might learn a little more about ourselves in the process. With Africa being what many have called the cradle of civilization, the place where it all began, it seems to be the perfect destination for any such adventure.

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I don’t know for sure if my dad had ever really thought he would make the trip to Africa. Was the idea taken seriously, but simply kept being put off indefinitely into the future? Well, the time is now! Because of a fortunate situation I’ve found myself in, I am able to purchase airfare at ridiculously low prices. Generally, it is cost prohibitive to travel outside the U.S. because of the high cost of flying. With this problem being all but eliminated, we have been able to choose more remote and exotic locations for our travel adventures. Last year, it was Cambodia. This year, it seems only appropriate to journey with my father to a place where he’d always dreamed of going. And to why not share the experience with my kids, so Taylor and Connor are coming along as well. Over the next 12 days, I hope that we find Africa to live up to all that we’d dreamed.

20160719_183503Waiting for flight from Toronto to Amsterdam to Nairobi to Dar Es Sallam.

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