Tanzania – Day 9 – Ngorongoro Crater

August 9, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra 6 Comments

Last night was exciting! Lights out around 10pm or so at the Ngorongoro Crater Wildcamp, Taylor and I lay there in silence, just listening. We could hear twigs and small brush breaking from footfalls just outside our tent. Curiosity was not going to allow us to simply lie there and fall asleep. We unzipped a couple of the windows and used the LED from an IPhone to shed a little light onto what was creeping around out there. There was movement, but no definitive identification could be made. I felt confident that it was probably something harmless as I believed that I could hear it chewing — grass perhaps. In an instant, something startled our mystery guests. Out of nothingness, about 6 or so zebras jumped and ran directly toward our tent before quickly veering away and heading back out into the darkness. Exciting, heart-pounding, to say the least. Although we were not entirely sure what spooked our herbivore friends, from the calls we could hear, I am certain they were hyenas.

The predawn hours were chilly as usual. You never really think about it being “chilly” in Africa, but at night in the higher altitudes temperatures can easily drop into the low 40’s, sometimes 30’s.

We descended into the Ngorongoro crater in the early morning. The fog had lifted off of the ground, but still served as a lid over the entire caldera. The dampness in the air helped moisten the roads and keep the dust to a minimum.

With its abundant fields of grass and some permanent water holes, the crater seemed as though it were a perfect refuge for the grazers of Tanzania. Wide open spaces giving them distant views and plenty of warning of any predators in the area.

Warthogs seem to be ever-present in Tanzania, and there was no exception in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Largely herbivores, we often find them kneeling on the forelegs rooting their snouts into the earth in search of roots and tubers.

Lions were also found throughout the park. Having no real predators here, these animals seem to feel comfortable lounging anywhere they please.

One of the most prized sightings in Africa is the Black Rhino. Nearly extinct, Peter explained, it would be difficult to find this member of the “Big 5” as there are only 17 left in the park. On this particular morning it appeared that luck and good fortune had shone upon us.

It took a lot patience to wait for the massive beast to awaken from his slumber and stand so that we could all get a good look at him. Although we were a long distance away, it was easy to be impressed by the size and stoutness of this biological tank. To allow this animal to slip into extinction would be a crime.

The habitat here was also very hospitable for many bird species, as well. We were able to get some nice shots of Tanzania’s national bird, the Crowned Crane. In addition, we got a couple of good vantage points for the flocks of pink flamingos that migrate through.

The hippos here were also in abundance. We were finally able to get pictures of more than just their backs.

Following a couple of photos along side the hippo pool with our new friend, Peter, we began the steep assent of the crater wall. A very narrow, cobblestone road, I felt quite fortunate to have an experienced driver here. One slip or mistake and it would be difficult to recover.

Leaving the Ngorongoro crater and park, my mood was a bit melancoly. Not to downplay our desire to return to our families, the only thing left was our long slog home — five flights over the next 48 hours. It really meant that, for all intents and purposes, our African adventure was coming to a close. We wouldn’t be seeing any more animals, other than cows and goats. No more lions, elephants, giraffes.

We were delivered to the Arusha Airport within a few hours of our flight back to Dar es Salaam. With a little emotion and heartfelt farewells, we said goodbye to our friend, Peter. I am happy that we live in the age of technology and the internet. Via Facebook and other social media, I am certain we will remain friends.

Having come to the close of our 5 day/4 night safari I can only provide to my friends the highest of recommendations for Agama Tours. They were affordable, knowledgeable and helpful. The accommodations they provided along the way were no less than perfect. Our guide, Peter, was phenomenal. His knowledge of the land and animals was fantastic. He knew where to go and how to get the best vantage points to see all of the animals. He was also very attentive to our needs and comforts. It certainly seemed to be his honest mission to make our safari the adventure of a lifetime. Well, he succeeded.

Tanzania, Travel

Tanzania – Day 8 – More Serengeti

August 5, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra 4 Comments

(dedicated to Courtney L. for motivating me to finish this article)

The Serengeti Wild Camp is located somewhere near Seronera, but quite honestly, 100 miles from any real civilization. Sleeping in the middle of the Serengeti was very exciting, yet quite peaceful. No walls or fences to protect us from the predators of the night, we were completely exposed to the wilderness. In the dark hours you could hear the activity around us. A couple Dik-Diks wandered through the middle of our camp while making their calls that sound much like a high pitch cluck from a wild turkey. We confirmed the animals in the morning by the deposit they’d left on the trail to the dining tent.

By daybreak, we were out again on the game drive. It is in the earliest hours of the day that the animals are most active. Although I find it difficult to justify ever being up so early, we were almost immediately rewarded with the most amazing sunrise.

Taylor, who almost never wakes up this early, was also now suffering for a second day with nasty cold. Though she really didn’t have a choice, I applaud her for toughing-it-out and making the best of the situation. Despite feeling rough, she still got excited seeing her favorite animal, the giraffe.

Baboons on the move

Cape Buffalo on the move

On the hit list for today was more hippos, lions, a leopard, cheetah, and any other exotic species we happen upon. So we move on to the hippo pools. The hippopotamus typically emerges at night to graze on the grass of the plains before returning to their water sheds to keep cool during the day. This morning we had found most of them already submerged back under the water.

As I have mentioned before, the Tanzania has a plethora of exotic birds.

Unfortunately, I don’t know the name of this bird

Secretary Bird

Kori Bustard

Topi

Golden Jackal

Grant’s Gazzelle

Pack of Mongoose

A couple of Dik-diks

For months leading up to the trip, I’ve heard Connor talk about his favorite animal to be found in Africa, the Hyrax. Although it looks much like a large guinea pig or rodent, the hyrax has similar teeth, toes and skull structures as the elephant. These little animals actually share similar ancestry as the elephant. Although, I would have never found them, Connor spotted a few throughout the day.

Rock Hyrax

The quest on most safaris is generally to encounter all of the “Big 5” animals. The term “Big 5” was coined by big-game hunters for the animals which are typically the most difficult and dangerous to hunt on foot. They include the elephant, rhinoceros, lion, leopard and cape buffalo.

Although not one of the “Big 5”, my favorite was another big cat, the the ever-elusive cheetah. We had the good fortune to find one this day and he provided us a great photo shoot.

Even with all of the other sightings on this drive, it was the lions that seemed to steal the show. The opportunities to see these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat seemed to be endless.

With the hours slipping away, we made the trek south back toward the Ngorongoro Crater. Knowing everyone’s dislike for the long and dusty road that brought us into heart of the Serengeti, Peter took an alternate route that kept us far from all of the other vehicles. The much less traveled path took though a Massai “village”, where we made a rest stop, and then along some more remote and rugged roads. It was definitely the better route.

We arrived at our final overnight destination the Ngorongoro Wild Camp in the early evening. Located on the outer rim of the Crater, the camp was made up of about a dozen semi-permanent tents affixed upon stilted platforms. They had hardwood floors and full bathrooms with ceramic tiling — again… glamping.

At check-in we ate little fried “donuts” and drank complimentary hibiscus juice. They informed us that after dark, we were not allowed to wander without the accompaniment of a Massai warrior due to the dangerous animals that often wander through after sundown.

This evening’s dining did not disappoint. Via buffet, they provided, in my opinion, the best supper I’d had throughout the trip. Although similar dishes to those thoughout the safari — tender stir fried beef, roasted chicken, rice and different vegetables — here, they were better cooked and much more flavorful.

With full bellies and the anticipation of what we’ll see on the final day of our safari, we retired for the night. All hope was to sleep like a well fed baby.

Tanzania, Travel

Tanzania – Day 7 – Serengeti

August 3, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra 1 Comment

We departed the Flamingo Safari Lodge at an early hour knowing that we needed to cover nearly 100 miles to reach the Serengeti by the end of the day. I’m sure most people are thinking… “100 miles? That’s not very far.” Let me tell you, it wasn’t an easy trip.

Driving through the town of Karatu we learned that it had the nickname “dusty city”. Literally, everything had a reddish brown hue from the layer of dust that settles everywhere. In the early morning, many folks were busy dampening the ground with water to help mitigate the problem.

At the gate to Ngorongoro Conservation Area, which was only a few miles from Karatu, we were required to purchase the necessary permits to enter the park. As part of the price of the safari, Agama Tours would cover the purchase of all permits and entrance fees. Unfortunately, this process took a considerable amount of time. As explained by Peter, a new system for payment has been terribly slow and is causing logjams at the gates. On the upside, the park entrance had a coffee shop, gift store, information, and bathrooms.

Baboons inspect the supply shipments

Once cleared to enter, we proceeded into the dense forest along the narrow, bumpy dirt road, wildly twisting back-and-forth as we ascended the south rim of the crater. At the summit came our first look into this magnificent geological wonder.

The Ngorongoro Crater is the worlds largest inactive, intact and unfilled volcanic caldera — in 2013, it was named as one of Africa’s Seven Natural Wonders. Inside the rim, lies about 100 square miles of mostly flat land that serve as a grazing location for many species. Our itinerary will lead us down into the caldera on Friday where we hope to see one of the 17 remaining black rhinos.

I think we found a weak WIFI signal!

The road through the conservation area and into the Serengeti National Park was ridiculously rough — I was certain my fillings were going to shake out. And, I believe Peter later referred to it as the “Serengeti massage”. To travel here in any ordinary vehicle would be nearly impossible.

The endless migration of Land Cruisers made the 2 hour drive an exercise in patience. Every time a vehicle passed, we would close all of the windows for a few seconds to limit the amount of dust we inhaled. We did this a couple times per minute during most of the drive. And despite our attempts, we all had nasal passages that were literally packed with dirt.

A few miles into the Serengeti National Park we arrived at the Naabi Hill park office to take care of another permit. The location was set up perfectly as a picnic area and had a fantastic vantage point look out over the Serengeti.

Red-Headed Agama

Continuing further into the park, it was apparent as to how it was named. Serengeti mean “endless plains” in the Massai language. The terrain in many places went from the golden brown to a charcoal black as controlled burns have been used to allow the new green grass shoots to take root and gain exposure to the sun.

Despite the wide open spaces, animals could be seen everywhere.

Grant’s Gazzelle

Hartebeest

Kori Bustard, Africa’s largest flying bird

Black-backed Jackal

Spotted Hyena

The Dik-Dik is a miniature antelope growing up to 17″ tall.

Driving around the outcrops of large mounds of boulders in search of big cats, Taylor asked, “Is that real? Or is that a sculpture carved in stone?” What the…? Blending in perfectly by color and shape was an elephant standing up on the hill. Peter said he’d seen tracks leading up there before, but never actually caught the animal in the act.

We had the good fortune of coming upon a male and female lion in the process of courting. They eventually mated as a half dozen trucks were parked within gawking distance. It is unusual to see this as it isn’t necessarily mating season.

The scene actually was double feature — lion porn to the east and the most amazing sunset to the west.

We ended our long day at the Serengeti Wild Camp. We had two tents that were outfitted with mosquito netted beds, private hot showers and private toilets. As camping goes, this was true luxary. “Glamping”, perhaps.

Tanzania, Travel

Tanzania – Day 6 – Lake Manyara National Park

August 2, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra Leave a comment

I awoke this morning around 5:15 to the crowing of roosters just outside the Fanaka Safari Lodge. Whether by rooster, alarm clock, habit, or Mohammed’s call to prayer, the five o’clock hour seems to be the only time to wake up. Not distracted by the luxury of in-room WIFI, I figured I would fall back to sleep quickly. Well after 30 minutes of staring up to the dark ceiling and listening to the increase of activity outside, I threw in the towel, pulled on some blue jeans and headed over to the dining porch in search of coffee, and I’ll admit, WIFI.

The dining porch was about a 50 yard walk past the swimming pool, through a tall steel door of a perimeter wall and down a stone and concrete walkway between the cabanas and tent area. I call it a “porch” — perhaps, veranda — because it is a covered area held by two and a half walls outside the kitchen. Connor mentioned on the night before how it would be interesting during the torrents of the rainy season. From end to end there were seven tables with chairs all of which were covered an ornate, bright lemon yellow material looking as though they’re preparing for a spring-time wedding. Along the long wall is a vestibule cut out to contain a small bar. I was disappointed to see it gated closed, and not because I was thirsty for whiskey or beer, but because the WIFI router was located in there and was in need of being switched on.

A short drive from the safari lodge our day was to be spent in the Lake Manyara National Park in search of cape buffalo, hippos and their famous “tree climbing lions”. Although these lions are the same species as those found in the grasslands of the Serengeti, their habitat of forest provides them the opportunity to climb up into the lower levels of trees and reduce their exposure to the biting flies found closer to the ground.

Entering the park and driving into the thick forest areas, we found that the baboons had a significant population here. We had the opportunity to witness a battle for dominance within a large troop.

Continuing toward the lake, the hilly, dense forest gave way to some savannah and flat grassland. It is here that many of the animals come to graze including giraffe, zebra and the cape buffalo.

Seeing magnificent animals at nearly every turn, the abundance of life seemed endless. But evidence of the brutal harshness of this wilderness was also found throughout.

Although many seem to focus on the exotic mammals found here, Tanzania is also home to many unique and colorful birds.

Southern Ground-Hornbill

Superb Starling

Red-and-Yellow Barbet

Leaving the Lake Manyara National Park, we were a little disappointed in not having encountered a hippopotamus or a “tree climbing lion”. But that served as a reminder that we are not in the city zoo. The animals here have free roam and sometimes may not want to be found. Peter assured that there was so much more in store us throughout the safari — and he did not disappoint.

Our night stay was at the Flamingo Safari Lodge in Karatu. We had arrive there a little earlier in evening to give us a little down time to rest and recharge — tomorrow was going to be another early start as we need to make the big push through the Ngorongoro Conservation Area toward the Serengeti.

Our Extraordinary Ordinary Life

Monthly Archives: August 2016

Tanzania – Day 9 – Ngorongoro Crater

Tanzania – Day 8 – More Serengeti

Tanzania – Day 7 – Serengeti

Tanzania – Day 6 – Lake Manyara National Park

Life is the Journey