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All posts by D. Chris Klompstra
Excerpts from a (Business) Trip to San Francisco
It’s not often that my work takes me out of town for business, but when such opportunities arise I like to take full advantage. This year I was particularly fortunate to have a client uproot from Michigan and move to the San Francisco Bay Area. And the nature of my work requires at least a day or two visit to their office. Hmmm…. I had never been to California.
My flight arrived on Sunday afternoon, so I quickly picked up my rental car and headed north into the city.
A quick word about the car, I was supposed to get a CLA250 but it wasn’t available at my arrival time. What they gave me instead was a brand new Buick Cascada convertible with a mere 257 miles on it. It was a fantastic little car for maneuvering around the city and twisty roads in the hills.
With only 3 hours until sunset, there wasn’t much to time to explore so I headed straight to Fort Mason to try for a view of the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz. It wasn’t the best vantage point, but it was a quiet place to sit, relax and reflect. The air was cool and fresh, with a calming smell that you normally get oceanside.
I also had a little time to run down to Fisherman’s Wharf for a light supper. Yes, the wharf is kind of cliche’ and a general tourist hot spot, but quite honestly I enjoyed my short time there.
Out of relative randomness I chose to eat at Lou’s Fish Shack. Well, mainly because they had a table available outside.
Not being terribly hungry I ordered a cup of dungeness crab bisque and a couple of raw oysters. This bisque was fantastic; the oysters… well, I guess I just don’t understand the point.
It wasn’t until I walked further down the strip that I realized that I missed one of the highlights of the wharf — long row of stands selling all sorts of seafood options. Crab rolls seemed to be the popular choice.
After (sort of) catching the sunset by the Golden Gate Bridge, I went on a mission to find an obscure destination that I saw on YouTube. Located inside the beautiful Fairmont Hotel, where their pool used to be, was the Tonga Room.
The Tonga Room is a large elaborate tiki bar that harkens back to the 1960’s. Corny, yet fun. A complete mismatch to the elegance of the old hotel. In the center was a lagoon (pool) with a floating stage for live performances. Although, I was too early for the band, the Tonga Room still put on a show. Every 30 minutes lights would flash, thunder would roll, and rain would fall onto the lagoon. Again, corny, but was still pretty fun.
Staying with the Polynesian theme, I ordered some tuna poke tostadas and a beef stir fry with honey and black pepper sauce. To drink… pina colada, of course. The service was great, and the food fantastic. For me, it was definitely worth the effort to find.
Each of my two work days, I found myself with 3 to 4 hours of usable sunlight to go out and get more familiar with the bay area.
View from client’s office lot
Monday, I headed for Silicon Valley to tour around the Google Corporate campus. Although it looked like a fun place to work, I was a little disappointed. I’m not really sure what I was expecting, but what I found wasn’t too impressive. Mostly it seemed like a college campus, but for 8 year olds. I did take advantage of some nice nature trails that they have for their employees.
My next idea was to drive toward the Big Basin Redwoods State Park with the hope of getting a glimpse of the majestic giants. With the sun setting quickly in the mountains I never did reach my goal, but the drive by itself was spectacular. Tearing through the winding roads at breakneck speed, testing out the tires and handling performance of my little convertible was exhilarating. It reminded me much of the times we used to shred the Smoky Mountains between Tennessee and North Carolina – but on motorcycles.
Tuesday, after a grueling day at the office, I drove up toward Half Moon Bay. A man without a plan, I often count on luck. For most of my adventures, I usually go without adequate research or forethought. It was by luck that I made a random turn and ended up at the Ritz Carlton and Half Moon Bay Golf Links.
Although I am not an avid golfer and was merely a pedestrian, it was easy to appreciate the draw to this course. The ocean to the west carved out magnificent bluffs right up to the fairways edge. A slice or hook on a few of the holes would certainly put your ball into the drink.
Here, and down the coast, I found common plants with beautiful flowers. It was difficult to pass on a couple of the photos ops.
Also, very notable in my opinion, was the fragrant aroma that ocean breeze carried off of the many clover(?) fields that lined the road. At times it was so concentrated, it smelled almost like honey.
I had to stop many times during the cruise down the Pacific coast highway; too many views and things to see made it impossible to simply drive on. Every couple of miles there seemed to be another breathtaking vista that forced me to pull off the road and hike toward cliff’s edge. I wondered if the locals here actually take for granted this stunning scenery.
Lighthouse at Pigeon Point
I had reached Santa Cruz a little before sunset and had found the place where most of the people seem to end up in the evening. Walkers, joggers, cyclists, and a few nuts and fruitcakes crowded the path along Natural Bridges State Beach.
The day ended, as so many days should end, with a few street style tacos and a chile relleno in Santa Cruz.
Although touring and exploring were not the main point of this trip, California’s bay area and coast really seemed to make business an afterthought. I look forward to my next work trip. Although, I think next time I will certainly bring Beth. 🙂
The Sun is Just another Star
St Petes Beach is known to have some spectacular sunsets. We caught this on in November, 2014 on a Sunset and Dolphin Cruise. Although not the best shot on the roll, I like how the camera depicts the sun as a star.
Costa Rica – Chillin’ Seaside
We arrived in Tamarindo on the Pacific coast a little before noon. Evie, Tom, Leah and Karen had left Nuevo Arenal around the same time as us, but they were planning on stopping for some groceries before picking up the keys to our new home away from home. That left us with time to kill, and for me, that always means time to chill at a restaurant/bar. And today, it would be an oceanside restaurant/bar.
Arriving at Casa Banyan we were mistakenly feeling a little let down. Having just stayed four days at the eco paradise on Lake Arenal, it would be difficult not to feel that way. But these feelings were short lived as we settled in to our little beach house.
The interior of the house was nice, spacious, not glamorous, but very functional. Beth and I were fortunate to draw the long straw and opted for the private poolside apartment complete with its own kitchen and dining area. Unfortunately, we didn’t think enough to take some pictures inside.
Outdoor covered sitting area above the poolside apartment
The grounds outside were quite spectatular. Colorful tropical plants and different types of palms lined the pool and the perimeter walls making us feel quite secluded. And, just outside the rear gate was… the beach.
Because our casa was situated about a mile from the main strip of Tamarindo, it seemed necessary to get us some transportation that was a little more appropriate than the big SUV.
No, not an old VW bus. But that would have been pretty cool.
Nearly everyday all 7 of us would cram into the 6 seat electric car and head into town for lunch, dinner or some shopping. Although a few meals were prepared and eaten at our casa, we usually took advantage of the great oceanside restaurants.
It would be uncommon if a dog didn’t join you for a meal
Always with rice and beans
Our final supper together
Guess what Beth found…. taco stand! Eat My Taco!
Most mornings the others opted to eat breakfast at our place; Beth and I had other plans. Each morning, after a swim and some coffee, we hopped in the “scooter” and cruised down to Joe’s Surf Diner for huevos racheros, waffles and fresh fruit. The food was good, coffee was great, and atmosphere, fantastic.
Over several days of going into town or just hanging out on the beach, through observations and perhaps some prejudices, my mind seemed to have lumped all of the people into 3 categories: The resident Ticos; the young ex-pats (sometimes old ex-pats); and, of course, the tourists. For some strange reason, the tourist seem to be the lowest on the hierarchy.
The young ex-pats all seem to have embraced the surfer lifestyle. Working in the bars and restaurants, or giving surfing instruction, they make just enough money to perpetuate living down in this tropical paradise. One might think that their lives were unproductive or lacked real world experience and education. I wonder if they might be doing life right. It’s difficult to not feel a little envious.
On our final day, I spent some time alone in the shade of a palm tree with the sand between my toes. I watched the neighboring surf school practice what they’ve learned on their longboards while contemplating deeper thoughts. It was a great opportunity to reflect.
Every morning here, I awoke before dawn as the light begins to take over the darkness. At 5:30, right around sunrise, it seemed nearly impossible to resist the call of the ocean’s waves. Okay, so I’m not out there with a freshly waxed board, but it was still enjoyable to bust through the breakers to reach the calm water and do a little meditative floating while gazing up at the morning moon.
During the later part of every morning, there had been very little reasoning and forethought as to what to do and when to do it. More swimming in the ocean? Sure, why not. A little floating in the pool before lunch? Certainly sounds like a good idea. Honestly, the only reason to have a look at the clock is to determine when it is acceptable to eat again.
Leah, “Hey, that looks like Uncle Douwe on horse!” Yup, walk into town; ride back on a horse.
Afternoons have been occupied by quick naps, long naps, a little reading, or perhaps some writing. Sometimes sun; sometimes shade. And almost always a couple more good soaks.
One of the things that the Pacific coast of Costa Rica is famous for is spectacular sunsets. And I, like most people, have an affinity for a beautiful sunset. Having sorted through a hundred photos of the westward sky, I narrowed it down to these few.
Every evening, the sun set sometime between 5 and 6; although the exact time, I never really verified. As darkness quickly reclaimed it place it seemed inevitable that within 3 to 4 hours our bodies were telling us that it was time to sleep. “Good Lord, its only 8:30!”
At home, the enumeration of time is most important. We have jobs to do, schedules to keep, and places to be. In this place, time, the numbers on the clock, seems to have little importance. Eliminate the stress and our internal clocks revert back to a solar time table. Every day we spent in Costa Rica followed this pattern and, yes, I kind of liked it.
Pura Vita!
Costa Rica – Arenal Adventures
When planning a trip to Costa Rica there are so many different things to consider, and so many decisions to be made. Because of its geographical, economic, and climate diversity you will find yourself asking many such questions: Do you want the typical beachside holiday or an adventure in the mountains? Do want luxury or rustic accommodations? Relaxation or adrenaline pumping adventure? Shuttle buses or car rental? Dry season, wet season?
Our vacation strategy, this time, was going to follow the one we used in Cambodia — choosing a couple locations from different parts of the country. We were certain that we wanted to spend some time on the beach, but also time near the mountains and volcanoes. The first four nights were booked at the beautiful Villa Encantada on the northwest side of Lake Arenal. This location was perfect for day trips to explore the Arenal and La Fortuna areas.
Against the suggestions of many vloggers on YouTube, we chose to rent a Toyota Fortuner from Alamo Car Rental. It has been said that the car rental and insurance process was difficult and costly. We really didn’t find it to be an issue — a full size SUV for nine days for under $900. They also said that the roads were in rough shape and the drivers crazy — meh, I live in Michigan. Every day, we loaded up the Fortuner in search of fun, food and adventure.
Costa Rica has so many exciting excursions for casual adventurist to the adrenaline-addicted thrill seeker: hiking, canyoning, zip-lining, etc. We chose white water rafting and horseback riding. Glenn, the owner of Villa Encantada, provided suggestions for both and even made our reservations.
Monday, we were booked for a half day tour through Wave Expeditions to raft down the Balsa River. Only Tom and Evie had actually done this before. But with Class 2 to Class 3 rapids, we were in for a relatively leisurely float… Or so I thought.
During the 45 minute drive, we received a little instruction as to the commands we would be given from our guides. Six simple commands, which included “get down!” in which you throw yourself onto the floor of the boat so as to not get ejected. We would certainly never hear those words.
Down on the banks we posed for a few pics, had a few laughs, and split into 2 rafts. Looking at the river, I was regretting not signing us up for a Class 3-4.
Five minutes in… my only thought was “holy shit!” Then we hear “GET DOWN!”; leisure river float, nope. For the next hour, other than a few intermissions of calm, we hammered the rapids in quick succession.
Now I don’t want to mislead. It was a little scary and a lot of work, but it was fun as hell! Even Beth was having a great time.
Tom, Evie, Leah and Karen were also tearing it up in the other boat! Lots of excitement; perhaps, too much excitement. Early into it, they crashed hard sideways into a rock and Evie was jettisoned into the river. It was a pretty serious situation as she had gotten pinned between a rock and the raft, much of the time underwater. Fortunately, the others were able to get ahold of her and pull her back into the boat. Other than a little whiplash, bumps, bruises, and a pretty damn good scare, she came out unscathed.
Midway through the trip, all of the rafts from the company pulled off on the right bank for a little rest and refreshment. The timing was near perfect because we were all pretty wore out at that point. The guides flipped one of the rafts and began making quick work carving a half dozen pineapples and watermelons. It was some well need sugar and hydration.
Evie lost a watersock during her “swim”
The rafting tour concluded with a stop at a local organic farm for lunch and a small demonstration of local organic coffee, fruits, sugar cane and sugar cane “moonshine”. The food, served on a banana leaf, included a curry-like chicken, rice, beans, yucca, green papaya mash and homemade corn tortillas. It was fantastic, and probably the best food of the trip.
Tuesday we had planned for an excursion that would be a little more tame — horseback riding around the Arenal Volcano. Most of us had been horseback riding before, but never in a setting as incredible. Rocky streams, hills on the side of the volcano, and even a little waterfall were the backdrop for this amazing ride.
Despite being her first time, Beth took to it quite well
Karen’s horse loved to play in the water
Arenal Volcano
At Don Tobias Cabalgata, the horses were very well cared for and the guides were friendly and knowledgeable. They really seemed to follow much of Costa Rica’s philosophy of caring for their environment, the animals, and the planet, in general.
Wednesday brought about a little sadness in having to leave the Arenal region and Villa Encantada, we had a lot of fun there and were quite accustomed to the climate. But we had much to look forward to as our next 4 to 5 days were going to be spent on the beach.
Costa Rica – Villa Encantada, Paradise Found
Our first four nights in Costa Rica were to be spent in the tropical rain forest region near Lake Arenal and Arenal Volcano. We found a private residence, Villa Encantada, on the internet that boasted its own 40 acre eco preserve with miles of private hiking trails. And from all of the pictures we had seen and the reviews we’d read, our expectations were high. Because the three of us didn’t arrive until late Saturday evening, we would have to wait until the morning to explore this place.
Needless to say that when we awoke, we were certainly not disappointed. The house itself was fantastic with plenty of places to lounge about in the fresh tropical, mountain air. Every vantage point had a spectacular view.
Inside was equally beautiful, well decorated, with a lot of useful spaces for the 7 of us. We had 3 bedrooms downstairs, and another bedroom in the loft above. The living spaces were great for hanging out, cooking, and playing cards.
Certainly, the most awe inspiring were the grounds and the eco preserve on which it resided. Visually stunning is about the best adjective we could conjure to describe this paradise. We have all traveled to many beautiful places around the world, but all seem to pale in comparison to what we’ve found here in Costa Rica. I believe that many scholars say that the Garden of Eden was located in the MiddleEast or Africa; we who have stayed here these few days are convinced they are wrong.
Hanging bridge leading to a tiny island on the pond
Lake Arenal in the distance
Two small pools and one main pool with water slide
Beyond the immediate grounds lied miles of moderately groomed hiking trails that took us into the rain forest. Some of the trails followed the river giving great vantage points of several waterfalls. Another trail led down to a direct access to Lake Arenal.
While hiking we saw many fantastic creatures, as well as the most beautiful flora and fauna. Leaf Cutter Ants were particularly fun to watch. They blazed many trails throughout the property all with the mission to carry there yield from harvest to home.
Hooded Mantis
I can say that we thoroughly enjoyed this house, the hiking trails, the pools, the vibrant colors. We have found paradise.
Kudos to the owner, Glenn, and the staff who have made Villa Encantada live up to its name; it truly is enchanting!
***And yes, we enjoyed the hell out of the waterslide! (fun has no age limits)***
Costa Rica – In Search of the Tropical Paradise
Just over a year ago the idea was born to have a 9 day excursion down to Costa Rica with some family. Our group of seven was made up of Beth and I, my father, an aunt and uncle, a cousin and a good friend of the family (3 of us flying into San Jose, and the others Liberia). Originally, this was the year Beth and I wanted to go to Morocco which, in my opinion, might have been more of an “adventure”, but we rarely pass up the opportunity to travel with family.
Douwe, Tom, Eive, Karen, Leah, Beth and myself (from left to right)
Made up of two legs, DTW to FLL and FLL to SJO, the flight down was mostly uneventful. Five hours in there air? Piece of cake. But even on such a short trip, it’s nice to spring a few extra bucks for exit row seating.
Now, I did say that the flight was mostly uneventful. Coming into the San Jose Airport was actually kind of exciting. Looking out the left window we could see that we were flying parallel to the SJO’s only runway at about 1000 feet above the ground. From my own private pilot experience, I recognized that we were in the traffic pattern on the downwind leg. Of course this really isn’t a big deal, I’ve just never seen an airliner run such a tight pattern into an airport. Needless to say, we took a steep turn to base and to final approach right before a smooth touchdown. Talking with the pilot when we were exiting the plane, he explained that this is the toughest approach he flies because the airport is a little boxed in by the mountains.
After grabbing our bags from the turnstile, we shuttled over to pick our rental car. We needed something that would adequately haul seven of us up and down some challenging roads – a Toyota 4×4 with a turbo diesel engine.
Using Waze to navigate, we were led through some of the poorer regions of San Jose. The traffic was heavy and moderately aggressive, but not enough to deter.
Our first stop was to check out Guitarras Aristides Guzman, a little store front to a factory where they make the finest handmade guitars in Costa Rica. Although not very skilled at playing, I have had some lessons over the past year and a half and really do enjoy noodling around on a guitar in the evenings. I also have an affinity for the hypnotizing melodies produced on classical Spanish acoustic guitars. For the past several months, I had been excited to purchase one of these beautiful instruments.
We learned a little bit about the guitars, the material used to make them, and it became obvious which one I was interested in. Enrique sat down and played a beautiful Spanish tune showing off the guitar’s potential. The tone was clear, full and yet, delicate.
I definitely spent a little more money than I had anticipated, but I think that it is well worth it to get a souvenir that I would cherish, and use. And before leaving, we had the honor of meeting the man who had been making these pieces of art by hand for over 60 years.
Aristides Guzman, master guitar builder
Following a lengthy stop at Wal-Mart (Yes, Wal-Mart) to pick up some staples, we set the GPS for Nuevo Arenal, near Lake Arenal and the volcano. Taking the suggested route to the coast and then north to approach our terminus from the west, we expected the drive to be about 3 hours 45 minutes. With sunset a couple hours away, and a little concern about driving on Costa Rican roads at night, we made haste to get to our destination.
We did made one quick stop to try out some roadside Tico food.
About half way through our journey our progress was slowed tremendously by intermittent torrents of rain and never ending winding roads. And by this time, the sun had set and darkness fell quickly.
Despite getting to our destination couple hours later than anticipated, we arrived safely at the Villa Encantada. Because it was too dark to see outside, exploring this eco-paradise would have to wait until the morning.
New Orleans — Bourbon Street and Beyond
Buckled in and ready to fly home, our trip was ending much like it began — lots of laughs, and a little fatigue.
Three days ago, Matt (cousin), his awesome wife, Krista, and Beth and I caught a flight down to New Orleans to watch our beloved Detroit Lions put a beating on the New Orleans Saints. Obviously the trip was to be much more than a football game, and that certainly held true.
We like sitting closer to the front.
Beth and I had never been to the Big Easy, but were very fortunate to benefit from the past experiences of Matt and Krista on their many trips down. Although the city is not terribly big — and the people are of the friendliest we’d ever encountered — this place can be a bit intimidating. I found it to be a bit busy and taxing on the senses.
We stayed all three nights in the French Quarter at the Marazin Hotel. It was a beautiful boutique hotel two blocks from the famous (or infamous) Bourbon Street. Yes, we were certain to have a great time.
The inner courtyard at the hotel was especially beautiful at night.
On our first evening, we jumped right into our usual program of getting out there and seeing, experiencing as much as possible. And for me, that always means finding some of the best local eats around. When you think of New Orleans food, you always think of Cajun, Creole, soul food, and seafood. Jambalaya, gumbo, shrimp, crawfish etouffee are just a small sampling of the “must-have”s down in southern Louisiana. Our first stop was Ralph Brennan’s Redfish Grill where we enjoyed alligator boudin balls, seared redfish & stewed okra, and an amazing chocolate bread pudding. It was a wonderful preview of what deliciousness lied ahead.
Most of our evenings and nights were spent on and around Bourbon Street exploring the craziness and the culture that this place had to offer. Of course there was the usual drunkenness and debauchery that many of us imagine when we think of New Oleans (NOLA, for short, I guess). But from what I am told, it pales in comparison to what we would find during Mardi Gras. Still, it was a lot for the senses.
NOLA, in many ways, is quite spiritual. Catholicism is the dominant religion, but Voodoo, ghosts and spirits have also left its mark in the culture here. Walking tours highlighting locations of ghost activity were everywhere. Many of the hotels in the French Quarter also boast about being haunted which actually is a bit of a draw for many. And, because Halloween was at the end of the month, there was more of an emphasis on ghosts and other scary themes.
Presumed to be a haunted house
Beyond Bourbon Street, NOLA and southern Louisiana has so much more to offer. We spent Saturday morning and afternoon driving around the lowlands to the north and east of Lake Pontchartrain. To get there we needed to traverse the lake using the Lake Pontchartrain Causeway. Two parallel bridges, one northbound and one southbound, the causeway spans nearly 24 miles bisecting the brackish lake. Yes, brackish — a mixture of both fresh water and salt water.
23 miles to go!
Just a quick mention of something that totally foreign to us in Michigan, and Canada. Drive-thru Daiquiri shops! Although, I would never condone drinking and driving, it seemed almost necessary to pull through and order some delicious frozen cocktails for the journey — moderation, I guess.
Now, I do understand that Louisiana law does prohibit open intoxicants in vehicles, they are somewhat lax on what is considered open — the lid not being punctured by a straw is considered a closed container.
In search of place that had non-alcoholic frozen beverages, we found that you can get other wonderful things handed to you through a drive-thru window.
Seeking to find a more rustic Louisiana, we drove some of the back roads around the lake. One in particular led us out to a peninsula surrounded by marshy canals. I guess this might be considered bayou country as the road and surrounding water was at the same level. Being here really gave an understanding on what a hurricane or storm surge can do.
Curious what was the catch of the day, we talked with some friendly “truckbed fisherman” to learn that it was all about the blue crab. Apparently you tie a raw chicken leg on the end of your line and wait for a crab to grab on.
Boat ramp parking lot was actually a few inches BELOW the water line
Throughout or travels, Beth and I have always been strong believers in eating where the locals eat. No chain restaurants or fast food, we look for the greasy spoon on the side of the road that has more than an empty parking lot. More often than not, the food is delicious, the people are friendly, and the bill is small. This little place we found had a great lunch special that included fried catfish sandwich, cornbread, gumbo and a small serving of bread puddling for $7.99.
Heading back toward NOLA, we did make a little stop to check out an old military fort we could see from the road. Built in 1819, Fort Pike was to guard the Rigolets pass, a waterway that connects the Gulf of Mexico to Lake Pontchartrain. The fort itself was abandoned by the army in 1890. As a tourist attraction, Fort Pike was closed and reopened several times following hurricane damage. In 2015, state budget cuts closed it indefinitely. Closed, but not impenetrable to a couple guys with a curiosity and a sense of adventure.
Although we tried the obvious combinations, 1111, 1234, 1812, 1819, and 1776, we were unable to breach the main gate to the fort. From pictures we’ve subsequently seen on the internet, it might be worth a return trip if they ever reopen.
Driving back through the 9th Ward, we found ourselves eating street tacos out of a mobile taqueria in a nearly deserted parking lot off the side of the road. I had never known New Orleans to be a city for Mexican food, but we also have never driven past a taco truck without stopping. Beth has a radar for these sort of things.
Oh, and then there was roadside BBQ.
Back within the city proper, a few blocks from the French Quarter, you find the Garden District. A bit more dignified, yet unpretentious, this residential section of NOLA has it’s own draw. Draped in copious amounts of greenery, you will find all of the southern architecture and charm typical to NOLA .
Because New Orleans is built on a swamp, most if its cemeteries house their dead above ground in crypts and mausoleums. Its uniqueness makes it a typical draw for tourists, ourselves included.
Also unique to NOLA is their wedding celebrations and how they take the party right into the streets. Dressed to the nines and accompanied by a band, the bride, groom, wedding party, and many of the guests take to the streets in a parade of dancing, singing and partying. We were fortunate enough to come across two of them — one in the Garden District and one in the French Quarter.
Sunday morning… time for the big game — the main reason we are here. Time to put on our Lions gear(except our one Saints fan) and make the mile and half trek to The Superdome.
I did have a little apprehension representing the visiting team in a city which is so passionate about their Saints. But I quickly felt at ease because Detroit represented well, and the Saints fans were incredibly friendly, gracious.
The Superdome itself was very impressive. I was anticipating seeing a dated stadium that took a lot of abuse from Hurricane Katrina. Quite the contrary; it seemed modern, clean and logistically efficient for the 76,000 fans that inhabited its seats.
Our seats, were particularly amazing — 5th row, 50 yard line, behind the Lions bench. Cousin Matt really came through big on these!
Although the game was exciting, Saints fans ultimately had more to be happy about.
Our final night in NOLA was a little more relaxed. We spent some time walking the banks of the Mississippi River checking out the boat traffic and other sites.
Back in the French Quarter we hit a few clubs, listened to live music and even shot a little pool. The variety of what you find up and down Bourbon Street seems never ending. Although great jazz is expected, there really is something for almost everyone.
Looking back over this whirlwind of a trip, we all agree on one thing — New Orleans feels very Detroit to us. One of the reasons for this is the size and walkibility of the entertainment districts is similar in both cities. Another reason is the people. Over the past few decades, Detroit has been through financial decline, bankruptcy and is now seeing an economic and cultural renaissance. An attitude of “Detroit vs Everyone” has emerged with a resurgence of pride. The people of New Orleans have endured there own adversities, most notably one of our nation’s worst natural disasters — Hurricane Katrina. Having survived this devastating catastrophe, the people here have developed a resilience and mindset to continue living happy lives. They continue to be friendly, courteous, and perhaps, classy.
Cozumel – A Long Weekend Getaway
We arrived on the Yucatan Peninsula via two flights early in the afternoon and were ready to make our final flight over to the island of Cozumel for our long weekend getaway. It was a long day of travel that was taking us from the doldrums of a Michigan winter to the tropical climate of Mexico. Merely a 20 minute flight and we would be relaxing oceanside enjoying guacamole, tacos and margaritas.
A real puddle jumper, Mayair’s Dornier 228 was a twin propped plane that seats less than 20. Due to the nature of its size, every seat was a window seat… and an aisle seat.
Because the seats weren’t really assigned, my awesome wife knew exactly where we need to sit — right outside the cockpit! We got some pretty cool video of takeoff and landing right over the pilots’ shoulders. They were pretty cool about it, too.
Cozumel is a slower paced tropical destination. Touristy? Certainly, but the island lacks some of the commercial draw for the massive crowds of Spring Breakers, partiers, and general tourists.
Accommodations on the island vary for whatever suits your style. There are many large hotels and all-inclusive resorts that would be beyond adequate for lodging. However, we chose to spend our nights within the main city of San Miguel in a small guesthouse named Los Alcatraces. A very affordable option, it kept us away from the larger crowds of tourists and allowed us to reside closer to the locals. To us, it is important to at least attempt to absorb some of the foreign culture while traveling.
Los Alcatraces was small, quiet and charming place to return to after a day of exploring. The chartreuse walls created a small courtyard in our urban hacienda that was lined with a few palms, ferns, cactus and other foliage commonly found in the desert.
Also within this space is a small 12×10 foot pool that sits in the corner hidden from much of the day’s sunlight. Too small for laps, but it was perfect to bring down the core temperature of a body long-heated by the Mexican sun.
The owners, Greg and Silvia were very friendly and gave us many suggestions for things to do. Although they lived on the grounds, themselves, they gave us the space to treat as our own. We didn’t see them too much throughout our stay, but we were left in good company with the house pets. Rosa would come and quietly sit with us in the afternoons.
Five blocks from our guesthouse, we found the town center, the ocean, and our favorite place for breakfast. Jeanie’s was a great restaurant with fantastic breakfast. Huevos rancheros for me every morning! Sure, the food was excellent and the service was impeccable, but it was the view that we looked forward to every morning.
Because Cozumel is a more relaxed, slower paced island, our choice for transportation was a little motor scooter. I’ve often heard about the dangers of riding scooters in foreign countries, but honestly we couldn’t have felt more safe. And its size and agility allowed us to maneuver around the entire island with ease.
The inhabitable portion of the island can really be divided into three parts. The first is the town of San Miguel and cruise ship ports. A lot of this area touristy, but some is not. We spend most of our time cruising around here checking out some shops, roaming the town streets, and looking for different places to eat. Every evening, we viewed a spectacular sunset from an oceanside patio.
The second part would be the hotel and resort district. From San Miguel to the lighthouse at Punta Sur, the west coast is dotted with hotels and resorts. It is about a 30 minute scooter ride to cover this area from north to south.
On our second day we found a great little beach club 10 miles out of town. Playa Palancar was far enough from the docked cruise ships to keep the beach from being over crowded. It was great place to sit back, unwind, and perhaps enjoy a fruity cocktail served up to your beach chair.
The third part of the island is what I refer to as the backside (east coast). Here, most of the shoreline isn’t protected by any major reef so the waves can be quite brutal. Also, much of the shoreline is made of sharp jagged rocks which make impossible to swim in many places. There are a few exceptions where sand has collected making great entry points for those interested in surfing.
About four or five laid back bars, restaurants and beach clubs line the east coast. They seem to serve as an oasis to any tourists or locals who want to venture away from the hustle of the other side.
As the sun was setting on our final night of this Mayan getaway, Beth and I were already planning for our return to this paradise. Perhaps not the most adventurous place to visit (relatively normal toilets, no malaria, no land mines), but Cozumel was a getaway from the normal routine. Yes, we will be back.
*** i guess i like sunsets. :/ ***
Tanzania – Day 9 – Ngorongoro Crater
Last night was exciting! Lights out around 10pm or so at the Ngorongoro Crater Wildcamp, Taylor and I lay there in silence, just listening. We could hear twigs and small brush breaking from footfalls just outside our tent. Curiosity was not going to allow us to simply lie there and fall asleep. We unzipped a couple of the windows and used the LED from an IPhone to shed a little light onto what was creeping around out there. There was movement, but no definitive identification could be made. I felt confident that it was probably something harmless as I believed that I could hear it chewing — grass perhaps. In an instant, something startled our mystery guests. Out of nothingness, about 6 or so zebras jumped and ran directly toward our tent before quickly veering away and heading back out into the darkness. Exciting, heart-pounding, to say the least. Although we were not entirely sure what spooked our herbivore friends, from the calls we could hear, I am certain they were hyenas.
The predawn hours were chilly as usual. You never really think about it being “chilly” in Africa, but at night in the higher altitudes temperatures can easily drop into the low 40’s, sometimes 30’s.
We descended into the Ngorongoro crater in the early morning. The fog had lifted off of the ground, but still served as a lid over the entire caldera. The dampness in the air helped moisten the roads and keep the dust to a minimum.
With its abundant fields of grass and some permanent water holes, the crater seemed as though it were a perfect refuge for the grazers of Tanzania. Wide open spaces giving them distant views and plenty of warning of any predators in the area.
Warthogs seem to be ever-present in Tanzania, and there was no exception in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Largely herbivores, we often find them kneeling on the forelegs rooting their snouts into the earth in search of roots and tubers.
Lions were also found throughout the park. Having no real predators here, these animals seem to feel comfortable lounging anywhere they please.
One of the most prized sightings in Africa is the Black Rhino. Nearly extinct, Peter explained, it would be difficult to find this member of the “Big 5” as there are only 17 left in the park. On this particular morning it appeared that luck and good fortune had shone upon us.
It took a lot patience to wait for the massive beast to awaken from his slumber and stand so that we could all get a good look at him. Although we were a long distance away, it was easy to be impressed by the size and stoutness of this biological tank. To allow this animal to slip into extinction would be a crime.
The habitat here was also very hospitable for many bird species, as well. We were able to get some nice shots of Tanzania’s national bird, the Crowned Crane. In addition, we got a couple of good vantage points for the flocks of pink flamingos that migrate through.
The hippos here were also in abundance. We were finally able to get pictures of more than just their backs.
Following a couple of photos along side the hippo pool with our new friend, Peter, we began the steep assent of the crater wall. A very narrow, cobblestone road, I felt quite fortunate to have an experienced driver here. One slip or mistake and it would be difficult to recover.
Leaving the Ngorongoro crater and park, my mood was a bit melancoly. Not to downplay our desire to return to our families, the only thing left was our long slog home — five flights over the next 48 hours. It really meant that, for all intents and purposes, our African adventure was coming to a close. We wouldn’t be seeing any more animals, other than cows and goats. No more lions, elephants, giraffes.
We were delivered to the Arusha Airport within a few hours of our flight back to Dar es Salaam. With a little emotion and heartfelt farewells, we said goodbye to our friend, Peter. I am happy that we live in the age of technology and the internet. Via Facebook and other social media, I am certain we will remain friends.
Having come to the close of our 5 day/4 night safari I can only provide to my friends the highest of recommendations for Agama Tours. They were affordable, knowledgeable and helpful. The accommodations they provided along the way were no less than perfect. Our guide, Peter, was phenomenal. His knowledge of the land and animals was fantastic. He knew where to go and how to get the best vantage points to see all of the animals. He was also very attentive to our needs and comforts. It certainly seemed to be his honest mission to make our safari the adventure of a lifetime. Well, he succeeded.