Category Archives: Tanzania

Tanzania – Day 9 – Ngorongoro Crater

August 9, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra 6 Comments

Last night was exciting! Lights out around 10pm or so at the Ngorongoro Crater Wildcamp, Taylor and I lay there in silence, just listening. We could hear twigs and small brush breaking from footfalls just outside our tent. Curiosity was not going to allow us to simply lie there and fall asleep. We unzipped a couple of the windows and used the LED from an IPhone to shed a little light onto what was creeping around out there. There was movement, but no definitive identification could be made. I felt confident that it was probably something harmless as I believed that I could hear it chewing — grass perhaps. In an instant, something startled our mystery guests. Out of nothingness, about 6 or so zebras jumped and ran directly toward our tent before quickly veering away and heading back out into the darkness. Exciting, heart-pounding, to say the least. Although we were not entirely sure what spooked our herbivore friends, from the calls we could hear, I am certain they were hyenas.

The predawn hours were chilly as usual. You never really think about it being “chilly” in Africa, but at night in the higher altitudes temperatures can easily drop into the low 40’s, sometimes 30’s.

We descended into the Ngorongoro crater in the early morning. The fog had lifted off of the ground, but still served as a lid over the entire caldera. The dampness in the air helped moisten the roads and keep the dust to a minimum.

With its abundant fields of grass and some permanent water holes, the crater seemed as though it were a perfect refuge for the grazers of Tanzania. Wide open spaces giving them distant views and plenty of warning of any predators in the area.

Warthogs seem to be ever-present in Tanzania, and there was no exception in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Largely herbivores, we often find them kneeling on the forelegs rooting their snouts into the earth in search of roots and tubers.

Lions were also found throughout the park. Having no real predators here, these animals seem to feel comfortable lounging anywhere they please.

One of the most prized sightings in Africa is the Black Rhino. Nearly extinct, Peter explained, it would be difficult to find this member of the “Big 5” as there are only 17 left in the park. On this particular morning it appeared that luck and good fortune had shone upon us.

It took a lot patience to wait for the massive beast to awaken from his slumber and stand so that we could all get a good look at him. Although we were a long distance away, it was easy to be impressed by the size and stoutness of this biological tank. To allow this animal to slip into extinction would be a crime.

The habitat here was also very hospitable for many bird species, as well. We were able to get some nice shots of Tanzania’s national bird, the Crowned Crane. In addition, we got a couple of good vantage points for the flocks of pink flamingos that migrate through.

The hippos here were also in abundance. We were finally able to get pictures of more than just their backs.

Following a couple of photos along side the hippo pool with our new friend, Peter, we began the steep assent of the crater wall. A very narrow, cobblestone road, I felt quite fortunate to have an experienced driver here. One slip or mistake and it would be difficult to recover.

Leaving the Ngorongoro crater and park, my mood was a bit melancoly. Not to downplay our desire to return to our families, the only thing left was our long slog home — five flights over the next 48 hours. It really meant that, for all intents and purposes, our African adventure was coming to a close. We wouldn’t be seeing any more animals, other than cows and goats. No more lions, elephants, giraffes.

We were delivered to the Arusha Airport within a few hours of our flight back to Dar es Salaam. With a little emotion and heartfelt farewells, we said goodbye to our friend, Peter. I am happy that we live in the age of technology and the internet. Via Facebook and other social media, I am certain we will remain friends.

Having come to the close of our 5 day/4 night safari I can only provide to my friends the highest of recommendations for Agama Tours. They were affordable, knowledgeable and helpful. The accommodations they provided along the way were no less than perfect. Our guide, Peter, was phenomenal. His knowledge of the land and animals was fantastic. He knew where to go and how to get the best vantage points to see all of the animals. He was also very attentive to our needs and comforts. It certainly seemed to be his honest mission to make our safari the adventure of a lifetime. Well, he succeeded.

Tanzania, Travel

Tanzania – Day 8 – More Serengeti

August 5, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra 4 Comments

(dedicated to Courtney L. for motivating me to finish this article)

The Serengeti Wild Camp is located somewhere near Seronera, but quite honestly, 100 miles from any real civilization. Sleeping in the middle of the Serengeti was very exciting, yet quite peaceful. No walls or fences to protect us from the predators of the night, we were completely exposed to the wilderness. In the dark hours you could hear the activity around us. A couple Dik-Diks wandered through the middle of our camp while making their calls that sound much like a high pitch cluck from a wild turkey. We confirmed the animals in the morning by the deposit they’d left on the trail to the dining tent.

By daybreak, we were out again on the game drive. It is in the earliest hours of the day that the animals are most active. Although I find it difficult to justify ever being up so early, we were almost immediately rewarded with the most amazing sunrise.

Taylor, who almost never wakes up this early, was also now suffering for a second day with nasty cold. Though she really didn’t have a choice, I applaud her for toughing-it-out and making the best of the situation. Despite feeling rough, she still got excited seeing her favorite animal, the giraffe.

Baboons on the move

Cape Buffalo on the move

On the hit list for today was more hippos, lions, a leopard, cheetah, and any other exotic species we happen upon. So we move on to the hippo pools. The hippopotamus typically emerges at night to graze on the grass of the plains before returning to their water sheds to keep cool during the day. This morning we had found most of them already submerged back under the water.

As I have mentioned before, the Tanzania has a plethora of exotic birds.

Unfortunately, I don’t know the name of this bird

Secretary Bird

Kori Bustard

Topi

Golden Jackal

Grant’s Gazzelle

Pack of Mongoose

A couple of Dik-diks

For months leading up to the trip, I’ve heard Connor talk about his favorite animal to be found in Africa, the Hyrax. Although it looks much like a large guinea pig or rodent, the hyrax has similar teeth, toes and skull structures as the elephant. These little animals actually share similar ancestry as the elephant. Although, I would have never found them, Connor spotted a few throughout the day.

Rock Hyrax

The quest on most safaris is generally to encounter all of the “Big 5” animals. The term “Big 5” was coined by big-game hunters for the animals which are typically the most difficult and dangerous to hunt on foot. They include the elephant, rhinoceros, lion, leopard and cape buffalo.

Although not one of the “Big 5”, my favorite was another big cat, the the ever-elusive cheetah. We had the good fortune to find one this day and he provided us a great photo shoot.

Even with all of the other sightings on this drive, it was the lions that seemed to steal the show. The opportunities to see these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat seemed to be endless.

With the hours slipping away, we made the trek south back toward the Ngorongoro Crater. Knowing everyone’s dislike for the long and dusty road that brought us into heart of the Serengeti, Peter took an alternate route that kept us far from all of the other vehicles. The much less traveled path took though a Massai “village”, where we made a rest stop, and then along some more remote and rugged roads. It was definitely the better route.

We arrived at our final overnight destination the Ngorongoro Wild Camp in the early evening. Located on the outer rim of the Crater, the camp was made up of about a dozen semi-permanent tents affixed upon stilted platforms. They had hardwood floors and full bathrooms with ceramic tiling — again… glamping.

At check-in we ate little fried “donuts” and drank complimentary hibiscus juice. They informed us that after dark, we were not allowed to wander without the accompaniment of a Massai warrior due to the dangerous animals that often wander through after sundown.

This evening’s dining did not disappoint. Via buffet, they provided, in my opinion, the best supper I’d had throughout the trip. Although similar dishes to those thoughout the safari — tender stir fried beef, roasted chicken, rice and different vegetables — here, they were better cooked and much more flavorful.

With full bellies and the anticipation of what we’ll see on the final day of our safari, we retired for the night. All hope was to sleep like a well fed baby.

Tanzania, Travel

Tanzania – Day 7 – Serengeti

August 3, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra 1 Comment

We departed the Flamingo Safari Lodge at an early hour knowing that we needed to cover nearly 100 miles to reach the Serengeti by the end of the day. I’m sure most people are thinking… “100 miles? That’s not very far.” Let me tell you, it wasn’t an easy trip.

Driving through the town of Karatu we learned that it had the nickname “dusty city”. Literally, everything had a reddish brown hue from the layer of dust that settles everywhere. In the early morning, many folks were busy dampening the ground with water to help mitigate the problem.

At the gate to Ngorongoro Conservation Area, which was only a few miles from Karatu, we were required to purchase the necessary permits to enter the park. As part of the price of the safari, Agama Tours would cover the purchase of all permits and entrance fees. Unfortunately, this process took a considerable amount of time. As explained by Peter, a new system for payment has been terribly slow and is causing logjams at the gates. On the upside, the park entrance had a coffee shop, gift store, information, and bathrooms.

Baboons inspect the supply shipments

Once cleared to enter, we proceeded into the dense forest along the narrow, bumpy dirt road, wildly twisting back-and-forth as we ascended the south rim of the crater. At the summit came our first look into this magnificent geological wonder.

The Ngorongoro Crater is the worlds largest inactive, intact and unfilled volcanic caldera — in 2013, it was named as one of Africa’s Seven Natural Wonders. Inside the rim, lies about 100 square miles of mostly flat land that serve as a grazing location for many species. Our itinerary will lead us down into the caldera on Friday where we hope to see one of the 17 remaining black rhinos.

I think we found a weak WIFI signal!

The road through the conservation area and into the Serengeti National Park was ridiculously rough — I was certain my fillings were going to shake out. And, I believe Peter later referred to it as the “Serengeti massage”. To travel here in any ordinary vehicle would be nearly impossible.

The endless migration of Land Cruisers made the 2 hour drive an exercise in patience. Every time a vehicle passed, we would close all of the windows for a few seconds to limit the amount of dust we inhaled. We did this a couple times per minute during most of the drive. And despite our attempts, we all had nasal passages that were literally packed with dirt.

A few miles into the Serengeti National Park we arrived at the Naabi Hill park office to take care of another permit. The location was set up perfectly as a picnic area and had a fantastic vantage point look out over the Serengeti.

Red-Headed Agama

Continuing further into the park, it was apparent as to how it was named. Serengeti mean “endless plains” in the Massai language. The terrain in many places went from the golden brown to a charcoal black as controlled burns have been used to allow the new green grass shoots to take root and gain exposure to the sun.

Despite the wide open spaces, animals could be seen everywhere.

Grant’s Gazzelle

Hartebeest

Kori Bustard, Africa’s largest flying bird

Black-backed Jackal

Spotted Hyena

The Dik-Dik is a miniature antelope growing up to 17″ tall.

Driving around the outcrops of large mounds of boulders in search of big cats, Taylor asked, “Is that real? Or is that a sculpture carved in stone?” What the…? Blending in perfectly by color and shape was an elephant standing up on the hill. Peter said he’d seen tracks leading up there before, but never actually caught the animal in the act.

We had the good fortune of coming upon a male and female lion in the process of courting. They eventually mated as a half dozen trucks were parked within gawking distance. It is unusual to see this as it isn’t necessarily mating season.

The scene actually was double feature — lion porn to the east and the most amazing sunset to the west.

We ended our long day at the Serengeti Wild Camp. We had two tents that were outfitted with mosquito netted beds, private hot showers and private toilets. As camping goes, this was true luxary. “Glamping”, perhaps.

Tanzania, Travel

Tanzania – Day 6 – Lake Manyara National Park

August 2, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra Leave a comment

I awoke this morning around 5:15 to the crowing of roosters just outside the Fanaka Safari Lodge. Whether by rooster, alarm clock, habit, or Mohammed’s call to prayer, the five o’clock hour seems to be the only time to wake up. Not distracted by the luxury of in-room WIFI, I figured I would fall back to sleep quickly. Well after 30 minutes of staring up to the dark ceiling and listening to the increase of activity outside, I threw in the towel, pulled on some blue jeans and headed over to the dining porch in search of coffee, and I’ll admit, WIFI.

The dining porch was about a 50 yard walk past the swimming pool, through a tall steel door of a perimeter wall and down a stone and concrete walkway between the cabanas and tent area. I call it a “porch” — perhaps, veranda — because it is a covered area held by two and a half walls outside the kitchen. Connor mentioned on the night before how it would be interesting during the torrents of the rainy season. From end to end there were seven tables with chairs all of which were covered an ornate, bright lemon yellow material looking as though they’re preparing for a spring-time wedding. Along the long wall is a vestibule cut out to contain a small bar. I was disappointed to see it gated closed, and not because I was thirsty for whiskey or beer, but because the WIFI router was located in there and was in need of being switched on.

A short drive from the safari lodge our day was to be spent in the Lake Manyara National Park in search of cape buffalo, hippos and their famous “tree climbing lions”. Although these lions are the same species as those found in the grasslands of the Serengeti, their habitat of forest provides them the opportunity to climb up into the lower levels of trees and reduce their exposure to the biting flies found closer to the ground.

Entering the park and driving into the thick forest areas, we found that the baboons had a significant population here. We had the opportunity to witness a battle for dominance within a large troop.

Continuing toward the lake, the hilly, dense forest gave way to some savannah and flat grassland. It is here that many of the animals come to graze including giraffe, zebra and the cape buffalo.

Seeing magnificent animals at nearly every turn, the abundance of life seemed endless. But evidence of the brutal harshness of this wilderness was also found throughout.

Although many seem to focus on the exotic mammals found here, Tanzania is also home to many unique and colorful birds.

Southern Ground-Hornbill

Superb Starling

Red-and-Yellow Barbet

Leaving the Lake Manyara National Park, we were a little disappointed in not having encountered a hippopotamus or a “tree climbing lion”. But that served as a reminder that we are not in the city zoo. The animals here have free roam and sometimes may not want to be found. Peter assured that there was so much more in store us throughout the safari — and he did not disappoint.

Our night stay was at the Flamingo Safari Lodge in Karatu. We had arrive there a little earlier in evening to give us a little down time to rest and recharge — tomorrow was going to be another early start as we need to make the big push through the Ngorongoro Conservation Area toward the Serengeti.

Tanzania, Travel

Tanzania – Day 5 – Tarangire National Park

July 30, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra 2 Comments

This morning was another early rise. Peter, from Agama Tours, picked us up promptly at 7 am. Our vehicle, an extended Toyota Land Cruiser outfitted with a removable top and plenty of sliding windows for proper wildlife viewing. These Land Cruisers are the only vehicles tough enough for the rugged terrain of the Serengeti.

After a quick stop within the city of Arush to pick up some bottled water and other provisions, we headed out toward Tarangire National Park. The drive was a little long so we passed the time by sight-seeing, writing, sudoku and napping.

Driving west on a well paved, asphalt highway we began to see the vast open spaces of the Tanzanian grasslands. You might expect a lot of green, but because we are in the dry season all of the ground cover is a light yellowish tan broken up by sage colored shrubs and small trees. At this point, since we are still a distance from the parks, we have not yet seen any wild animals. Only frequent herds of cows usually led by a Massai teenagers.

On this first day of our safari we were joined by a good looking young couple who are out for just a 1 day excursion. Minel (Spain) and Bruna (Portugal) were a couple of medical students who are spending a month volunteering their time in local villages.

As we entered the Tarangerie National Park, the nations sixth largest national park, we were all brimming with excitement to see some real wildlife. The first animal we happened upon was a lonely old wildebeest. Wow! We took nearly a hundred pictures and joked that he had a rope holding him there just for our viewing. Peter must have been laughing inside for he knew better of what was to come.

And yes, there was so much more to come. I really was expecting most of the wildlife to be elusive and difficult to find, but that is furthest from the truth. For the next several hours, we were inundated with new and exciting scenes at every turn.

Here are some of the notable pictures of the animals and scenery as we saw them:

Young impalla

Waterbuck

Impalla

Warthogs

Female lion stalking its prey

Velvet monkey

Male and female ostrich

Baboons were always fun to watch

It was often obvious when there was something unique to see. As many as 20 or so Land Crusiers would line up to watch.

A little added adventure

Food!, Tanzania, Travel

Tanzania – Day 4 – Transition

July 30, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra Leave a comment

Today was all about getting to Arusha, the starting point for our safari. We needed to start early to catch the ferry, to catch the cab, to catch the plane. Probably one of my least favorite places in Tanzania is the ferry dock. Huge crowds. And so many people to carry so few bags. Ten thousand shillings… ten thousand shillings… ten thousand shillings for everyone! Oh, that’s not enough? Twenty thousand shillings! I later found out that I was way over-tipping. It was difficult dealing with the onslaught of “help” so early in the morning, but we managed.

After we made the crossing to Dar es Salaam (DAR) and the mainland, we found George (our first taxi driver). It was nice seeing him waiting for us because he was quite friendly and spoke really good English. As it turned out, we had more than enough time to make our transitional flight so George took us to an upper-end hotel on the peninsula for breakfast. The crepes were excellent and the views, spectacular!

Following breakfast we took a detour through one of the more impoverished neigborhoods of DAR. Unlike the slums we are used to seeing in Detroit where the streets often seem desolate, these were packed with people and activity. It is difficult to imagine the conditions that so many have actually grown accustomed to living in.

After a long day of travel, we transitioned from the coastal region of Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam to the country’s interior on the northeast side of Tanzania. Our flight out of the old, primitive airport of DAR took us to the remote airport in Arusha. Although it is within a few minutes of the cities 1.5 million people, it certainly gave the impression that we were deep within the heart of Africa. The trip was particularly unique as it was the first flight I’ve had on a commercial twin-engine turboprop airplane that was very capable of carrying 78 deodorantly deficient people. Taylor and I laughed about how some many of these passengers must have been nicknamed “Bo”.

Our final hotel before the safari was the Mount Meru Hotel, a five-star all the way — the finest in all of Arusha. We engaged in a little downtime by the pool and then a delicious dinner at one of their fine restaurants. Dad ordered the chef’s beef stew with ugali on the side. Ugali is somewhat considered a national dish in Tanzania and is often served with beef, chicken, or fish prepared in different ways. Its essentially a thick porridge made of corn meal and has the appearance and texture of a large dumpling, perhaps. It’s taste was of bland, finely ground grits and strangely reminded us of unsalted cauliflower.

We ended the evening with a lot of emotions. Taylor was feeling homesick and missed Paul; I was missing Beth. But after a little video chat with our loved ones, we had felt better.

Tanzania, Travel

Tanzania – Day 3 – Zanzibar, The Other Side

July 24, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra 8 Comments

Our final full day on Zanzibar Island was upon us and we had actually left ourselves without a plan. I guess we assumed that some jetlag recovery time would keep us settled in close to the hotel pool and beach, but that isn’t how the day went. The night before I messaged my amateur travel agent and love of my life, Beth, for some ideas. And as always, she came through with a good one — an ATV tour out of Kiwengwa on the other side of the island.

As always, it was very easy to hire a taxi to drive us where ever we needed to go for the day. On the one and a half hour drive across Zanzibar’s interior, we saw the landscape change from the congested and touristy Stone Town to a more rural setting. We had learned along the way about the islands 3 forms of industry: Stone Town provided mostly industrial careers; the interior was predominantly for agriculture; and the coastlines were all about fishing. Regardless, its very obvious that these people work hard to maintain any sort of living.

Enroute we came across a couple of Polisi check points. Normally we think of these checkpoints for drunk driving prevention, but here they put the importance on assuring your license, insurance and registration are up to date. Our driver didn’t have a current sticker on his license plate and was expecting that they would mail him a ticket.

Finally reaching the small village of Kiwengwa, it was time for lunch. Dad and Taylor must have been especially hungry as they had slept through breakfast. We were taken to a place known as Obama Beach Bar which was supposed to have really good pizza. As far as pizza goes, it wasn’t too bad.

This place was sandwiched between dozens of “resorts” that seem to especially cater to Italians on holiday. I put “resorts” in parentheses because they all are a little more rustic than what I would qualify as a resort.

Hanging out at the bar and on the beach were a dozen or so Massai warriors in the traditional clothing. Some played billiards (I should have gotten a picture) while others lounged around, but they were all very interested in our presence there. They operated a small stand selling some handmade crafts and jewelry; certainly they wanted us to come and purchase there wares. But they were very friendly and willing to pose for a few photos so we took some time to purchase a few items.

Because we waited until the final hour to call to reserve our places on the ATVs, they were fully booked for the day. “Hakuna matata” (no worries) our driver knew a local guy who could squeeze in as long as we were willing to ride two up.

Connor actually drove most of the time.

Well, from what we read on Trip Advisor the original company received nothing but favorable ratings from there customers. I don’t think the “local guy” we used was listed on trip advisor. Our group had four machines and all were pretty much complete crap. One Italian girl had about 4 incidences where her ATV would stall out. And then, hers quit because a battery cable snapped which was only a short delay because the company owner and his employee (who led us on an old 150 cc motorbike) seemed to have the necessary tools and know-how to make emergency repairs. But then we began having issues with the ATV that Connor and I were riding — the chain kept popping off the sprockets. After about four times, the reason became apparent. The bearings on the rear axle were completely shot. Hakuna matata! They had a new set of bearing and the rudimentary tools with them to fix it up. Well after about an hour, the repair didn’t exactly work as planned so the remainder of the tour Connor and I got towed. Honestly, I look at this setback as part of the adventure.

Spectators for the repair.

The ATV tour took through 3 different villages all with different levels of tough living conditions. Some lived in grass huts without electricity, while others were in clay houses, no water. And then some in brick and clay.

Despite the harsh conditions one thing was certain, the beautiful little kids made the best of the situations which they were born into. The appreciation they had for a simple little cookie or lollipop was quite inspiring.

The ride back.

Food!, Tanzania, Travel

Tanzania – Day 2 – Stone Town, Zanzibar

July 23, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra 7 Comments

Having finally settled in and plowing through some really good zzz’s, Taylor and I were awoken by the 5:30 am Adhan (Islamic call to prayer) being chanted over loud speakers. I have seen and heard this though various media sources before, but never in person. Because the nearest mosque is almost directly across the street, it was really, really loud. If I lived here , I would probably need to convert to Islam so that I wouldn’t be pissed about being awoken in that manner everyday. But since I am merely a tourist in search of adventure, it was pretty damn cool.

Breakfast was served from the main hotel building down the street. My dad and I left the kids back at the apartment as they were more interested in sleep than food. It was the typical continental breakfast, except with their own Zanzibari flare. We enjoyed fresh mango, pineapple, passion fruit, local breads, and some “beef sausage”. They also had the typical omelette station. Although it was difficult to get to the regular coffee between the time it was brewed and the time it was gone, they did have a big cistern of the “local coffee”. Served in the little shot-glass sized cups much like Turkish coffee, it was a little stronger than regular coffee but had a wonderful spiced taste with hints of cinnamon and cardamom.

As the breakfast was pretty decent, the setting and views were quite spectacular. With Stone Town situated on the Western side of Zanzibar Island facing the mainland, the ocean is generally quite calm here. Along the beach are dozens of anchored small boats used for charter and fishing.

Back in the Freddie Mercury apartment at the Freddie Mercury House we spent the rest of the morning letting the kids wake up at their own pace. Oh… Freddie Mercury? A little know fact, Freddie Mercury was actually born in Stone Town, Zanzibar — the locals all seem quite proud of it. And the workers at the hotel believe that it was here, in our apartment, that he was born.

We spent much of the day wandering the streets of Stone Town taking in the sights and fending off (or trying to) the advances of anyone with something to sell.

We were able to find our way to a local market that was popular for locals and tourists alike. There, we had met a friendly young gentleman (and also his cousin) who spent the next couple of hours showing us through the market and other highlights of the town. For some reason, I was misguided into thinking they were simply being helpful and courteous, but we received a proper shakedown for cash when we were done. In total, I think I handed them about 90,000 TZ schillings ($45), but, honestly, it was actually worth every penny.

Maybe a new look for me?

I thought it was necessary to stroll through the meat and fish section of the market simply for the sensory experience. The sights of fresh meat and fish being butchered in the stalls with flies landing on pretty much everything; it really was quite unappealing and made you appreciate such agencies as the USDA and Michigan Health Department. And although the attack on the olfactory senses was direct and offensive, it actually was like a pleasant trip to Kroger as compared to what I have witnessed in Cambodia.

Following the market we were led to the East African Slave Trade Exhibit. Once again, my journeys have taken me to see some of the darker sides of humanity. The atrocities involving slavery that have taken place here and other sights throughout the world are staggering. We were taken down and shown the crowded cave-like slave chambers where as many as 75 people were stored for months until sold. Many here died in of dehydration, malnutrition and disease as they were packed so tightly they would often have to lay on top each other to sleep. To learn a little more about the East African slave trade and the exhibit click here.

Following the tour, we worked our way back toward the hotel through narrow winding streets. Here are a few of the things we had seen along the way:

OSHA approved scaffolding?

After a short rest up in the apartment and trip down to the beach for the 6:25 pm sunset we headed off toward one of my most anticipated attractions in Zanzibar — the Forodhani Gardens night food market. Essentially after night fall, dozens of food vendors come out, set up their stands, and sell all kinds of local delicacies. You could purchase skewers of chicken, beef, liver or lobster. All are served with ‘”chips” (french fries) and a squirt of homemade ketchup and hot sauce. We also found some of the best chicken shawarma I’d ever eaten.

But the one thing that I had been most excited to try was what they call Zanzibar Pizza. I certainly wouldn’t describe it as pizza, but it was really fantastic. Its prepared by spreading out a little roll of dough; filling it with various meats, vegetables; add a little mayo and an egg; stir it all together; fold over the sides and then throw it on a hot round skillet. Everyone of us would tell you, it was amazing! And for dessert, they make them with Nutella, chocolate and various fresh tropical fruits.

Tanzania, Travel

Tanzania – Day 1 – Arrival

July 22, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra Leave a comment

The flight from Amsterdam to Nairobi was to be aboard the new Boeing 787 (the Dreamliner). It was nice a plane, but honestly, it was just another plane filled with people of all types sharing one common thing… a lack of deodorant use.

We arrived on the African continent with little fanfare, grandeur, shock or awe. The touchdown at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in Nairobi was well before sunrise so there really wasn’t much to see from the plane.

With a connection to Dar es Saalam in a few hours later that morning it made no sense for us to venture outside the airport. Besides the time constraints, we have also developed (from somewhere) an impression that Nairobi was not the safest place to be. I believe there was a terror attack on a shopping mall a few years ago that left dozens of people dead. Normally I might throw a little caution to the wind, but this time I feel the need to be a little more vigilant in looking after my little blonde haired princess.

Our final flight to reach Dar es Salaam was short an uneventful except for the awesome sighting of Mt. Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest mountain. Poking through the layer of clouds, you could see all of its glory which drove the reality that we have arrived at a place where many adventures had taken place. We will certainly find our own adventures on this trip.

We disembarked the plane and entered the small, outdated airport with poor ventilation and air conditioning. It was everything I would have hoped to find in an East African airport. The VISA application process was a bit confusing, but certainly not a deterrent. After paying our $100 per person fee, we received our VISAs , collected ALL of our luggage and headed for the exit. Outside the airport doors was a scene much like what you’d find in any other lesser developed country. Hundreds of taxi drivers all begging for your fare.

We met George, our driver, who was to take us to the docks where we would take a ferry to Zanzibar. Having 3 hours to kill we first drove to the port to buy our tickets. For an extra $25 per person we were able to upgrade to “Royal Class”. Afterward, George took us to an really nice upscale hotel restaurant which probably no African could afford. Although my usual desire is to seek out the traditional or exotic food, it was kind of nice for all of us after 2 long days of travel to choose from a typical American style menu.

Returning to the port we were met with a swarm of young black men, all dressed in yellow florescent vests, piling up around the car vying for our business. It was very intimidating knowing that we all had to get out and walk through the craziness. Everyone of them wanted to carry our bags, show us the easy route, and make sure we got to the right boat. It was insanely chaotic, and although I was feeling quite annoyed and a little overwhelmed, I didn’t really feel a sense of danger — I still kept Taylor within my reach.

Reaching the point of embarkation, we were confronted with a big problem — all of our tickets were dated for the following day. We were told to exit the port and go back to the ticket office to exchange the tickets, but there was concern that it would take too long and that we’d miss the boat (which already had our luggage onboard). Fortunately, we were able to convince them to allow us onboard even with the incorrectly dated tickets. The two hour ferry ride a bit rough, but very comfortable.

Did I mention we purchase “Royal Class” tickets?

Arriving at Stone Town, Zanzibar Island, we had more confusion and more herds of people to work our way through in order to get our luggage and clear customs. I’m not entirely certain why Zanzibar puts you through the whole immigration process as it is part of the same country of Tanzania.

A short taxi ride through the streets of Stone Town and we’d arrived at our first hotel, The Tembo House. After nearly 48 hours of travel, we were all ready for a place to drop our bags, a hot shower and a place to sleep horizontally.

Tanzania, Travel

Tanzania – Day 0.5 – Amsterdam Layover

July 21, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra Leave a comment

After a 7 1/2 hour flight for our first leg, we touched down in Amsterdam a little before noon. During the trip’s planning stages, I was very excited about the prospect of a 10 hour layover in the old city. It had been several years since I’d been here, so I thought it would be nice to spend 6 or 8 hours hoofing around the city centrum, taking a few pics, eating some herring or croquettes and admiring old world charm.

Well we were forewarned, it was going to be a HOT day in the Netherlands. With the temperature hovering around 90 degrees, it was a real challenge maintaining enthusiasm to push our sleep-deprived bodies too far.

We did manage to make it over to Dam Square for some good Dutch food and people watching. But by 4 o’clock we were all spent and ready to take the train back to Sciphol Airport and grind out the remaining two hours of layover in the comfort of air conditioning.

Our Extraordinary Ordinary Life

Category Archives: Tanzania

Tanzania – Day 9 – Ngorongoro Crater

Tanzania – Day 8 – More Serengeti

Tanzania – Day 7 – Serengeti

Tanzania – Day 6 – Lake Manyara National Park

Tanzania – Day 5 – Tarangire National Park

Tanzania – Day 4 – Transition

Tanzania – Day 3 – Zanzibar, The Other Side

Tanzania – Day 2 – Stone Town, Zanzibar

Tanzania – Day 1 – Arrival

Tanzania – Day 0.5 – Amsterdam Layover

Life is the Journey