Tanzania – Day 0.0 – Fulfilling a Dream

AFRICA. Merely reading or saying the word conjures up many different images in the minds of anyone with an imagination. Lions, elephants, gorillas, rhino are the first thoughts for many. Others imagine the scorching heat and drifting sands of the Sahara or the lush green jungles of the Congo. Those with a more sympathetic heart might instinctively think of the poverty, starvation, and famine. And still others may imagine civil wars, tribal battles and bloodshed commanded at the whims of evil warlords.

When I say the word and think of Africa, my mind’s eye shows me a hugely diverse continent with many different cultures, people, geographies, and ecosystems. Admittedly, I am not an avid reader. I believe that I would like to be, but I simply lack the patience to trudge through books over so many long hours – perhaps it’s a bit of the old ADD or simply ants-in-the-pants and don’t like sitting for too long. Consequently, I haven’t amassed a great knowledge of Africa (or any other place for that matter) through the thousands of wonderful texts that exist on every subject of the continent. I wouldn’t call myself ignorant, but certainly limited to what I’ve learned through television, movies, newspapers, and Google searches. So when thinking of Africa, I can envision vast wide open spaces with large herds of antelope or wildebeest thundering over dusty plains as I’ve seen on the old nature shows when I was  young. I can see the lions, cheetahs, or hyenas stalking the slower animals of the herd like what’s shown on the National Geographic Channel. I can imagine crowded, chaotic and possibly violent cities like Mogadishu in the movie Blackhawk Down . One thing is certain, I expect to be thrown way out of my comfort zone but in the process be rewarded with a life changing experience.

Over the past year, many have asked, “why Africa?” or “Tanzania? Is that in Africa? Why?” Well, there a certainly a few of reasons. The first, being this increasing urge to see all parts of the planet. Wanderlust is the popular word that many are using today. I’m not entirely certain that this is where I’m at, but I am certainly feeling a strong desire to set out on adventures and developing lasting memories through sharing awesome experiences with others. “With others” I think is the key. I don’t believe that I would have the same level of excitement for the journey if I were to walk it alone. Somewhat related, I’ve also found that enjoy the hell out of taking some time, putting pen to paper, and jotting down my observations, my thoughts, my dreams. I lack the patience to sit and read, but for some reason, I find serenity in writing. And a trip such as this provides me with a lot to write about. As accountant, it seems that I need to go a little out of my way to find some creative outlet.

Now reviewing what I just wrote, I guess my first couple of reasons don’t really answer the question “why Africa?”. They more likely answer “why travel so far?”. I guess the real reason is to fulfil a dream. No, it’s never really been my dream to go to the dark continent. It’s never truly been on my bucket list. Looking back through my childhood and formative years, I can remember many things. I remember my parents working very hard to provide a comfortable living for my sister and I. My mom mostly kept the home in tip-top shape with an unrelenting cleaning schedule. She also created a perpetual list of home improvement projects for my dad to complete after his long days at work. Not to say that our family wasn’t about having fun — it was– but we worked hard. One of my dad’s favorite hobbies (and there have been a lot) has always been reading. Although, many of the books found throughout the house have been about guns, photography, history and such, it was almost always certain that one could find on the kitchen table or in the living room a book about African big game. Books such as “Death in the Long Grass” and “Death in Silent Places”, both written by Peter Capstick, which were about the elusive man-eaters and the men who hunted them. He had books by Theodore Roosevelt about his adventures in the African bush, as well as books about elephants, rhinos and the ever-deadly cape buffalo. Back in those days, Christmas gifts or birthday gifts were easy. We could always find books or other things such as elephants or rhinos sculpted out of leather.

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Throughout the years, spending time with my dad, he never really expressed desire to go shoot an elephant, rhino or anything of that sort. Killing the animal for the sake of having a trophy wasn’t terribly appealing. If the opportunity arose to hunt a water buffalo that could be used to feed a local tribe or a perhaps a lion that may have been stalking, killing the natives, that might have been acceptable. Besides that, the cost of any such hunt has always been well outside the reach of most ordinary men. Probably the most significant motivation for him to visit Africa has been on more of a spiritual level. He believes that deep down within all of us, whether we recognize it or not, there is a primitive drive to return to the wilderness. You might say that we are, by mere instinct, driven to return to nature. The dictionary defines wilderness as an uncultivated, uninhabited, and inhospitable region. There is also the ever present reality of danger – whereby you need to take extra measures simply to stay alive. I suppose you could find pockets of true wilderness breaking up the continuity of civilization here in the United States. But in Africa, it’s the opposite – pockets of civilization located in the vast wilderness of the continent. My dad said there was an old saying about how Africa is fast. The lions wake early and need to be fast in order to survive. Likewise, the wildebeest also needs to be fast to survive. Now of course not many would want to live under such conditions, but to see it, and to feel it… that is where we might truly develop appreciation for life. We might learn a little more about ourselves in the process. With Africa being what many have called the cradle of civilization, the place where it all began, it seems to be the perfect destination for any such adventure.

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I don’t know for sure if my dad had ever really thought he would make the trip to Africa. Was the idea taken seriously, but simply kept being put off indefinitely into the future? Well, the time is now! Because of a fortunate situation I’ve found myself in, I am able to purchase airfare at ridiculously low prices. Generally, it is cost prohibitive to travel outside the U.S. because of the high cost of flying. With this problem being all but eliminated, we have been able to choose more remote and exotic locations for our travel adventures. Last year, it was Cambodia. This year, it seems only appropriate to journey with my father to a place where he’d always dreamed of going. And to why not share the experience with my kids, so Taylor and Connor are coming along as well. Over the next 12 days, I hope that we find Africa to live up to all that we’d dreamed.

20160719_183503Waiting for flight from Toronto to Amsterdam to Nairobi to Dar Es Sallam.

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Johnny Noodle King!

Having recently taken an adventure trip to Cambodia to experience the culture and food of Southeast Asia, Beth and I have developed a strong affinity for Asian noodle soups and other spicy dishes.   Whether it’s a breakfast of glass noodles and vegetables  in chicken broth or a dinner of Ramon noodles in a beef or fish stock there is something very appealing to working the chopsticks and spoon while slurping up some spicy goodness.

Watching the morning news on Saturday,  Beth caught a commercial — for the news — in which the weather reporter was talking about Detroit while in a new local restaurant.  In the background,  people eating noodles from deep bowls using chopsticks!   Instant decision… we are going downtown for Sunday’s dinner!

Located just south of the city, Johnny Noodle King was almost a stand alone restaurant in a relatively commercial district on Fort Street.   No traffic getting there,  but the parking lot was nearly full.

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We walked in,  and immediately loved the place.   A little rough around the edges,  yet hip and clean.   We quickly determined that we were probably the oldest people in the joint.

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Perusing the menu,  we found a great selection of Asian inspired noodle dishes and soups all at reasonable prices.   We made our choices while enjoying some hot green tea on the cold fall night.

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We ordered their bun de jour as an appetizer to split — a steam bun with porkbelly, jalapeños, hoisen and bean sprouts.  Fantastic!  By the well thought out combination of flavors,  it was obvious that those who’ve created the menu were well rounded and trained chefs.

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For our entrees, we chose the Pho Ga and the Pad Si U.  The Pho Ga was a brothy noodle soup, subtle in taste with fresh flavors from the cilantro, basil and lime.  I’m certain to have also tasted some ginger in there.  The Pad Si U was bold and beefy with rich flavors of garlic and soy sauce.  The thick rice noodles were al dente, but appropriately so.  As Beth and I share most meals for the sake of variety, she ultimately preferred the Pho Ga, while I sided with the Pad Si U.

As a fresh concept dedicated to Asian inspired noodles, Johnny Noodle King is a terrific idea for a casual meal in a hip environment.  Certainly worth the trip.  For hours, location, and other information click here:  JohnnyNoodleKing.com

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Cambodia – Day 9 – Sadness

This was to be our last day in Cambodia.  Our flight home wasn’t scheduled until 11:30pm, so we had the whole day open.  It was the day for which we’d planned to visit the Killing Fields at Choeung Ek and the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.  I’m sure many would ask as to why we would schedule our trip to end with visits to these horrible sights; we’d asked ourselves the same question.  The answer is that it is simply necessary.  Any trip to  Cambodia should include a visit to bear witness and learn more about the genocide committed by the Khmer Rouge between 1975 and 1979.  It is estimated that as many as 3 million of Cambodia’s 8 million people had been killed.

The Killing Fields at Choeung Ek is one largest and most known of Killing Fields in Cambodia.  In the late 1980’s, significant construction had gone underway to build monument to memorialize the thousands of people were brought here to be slaughtered.

The Memorial Stupa at Choeung Ek contains the skulls and other bones of nearly 9,000 of the Khmer Rouge’s victims.  Whether by bullet or machete, many of the skulls still show evidence as to how these people died.

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A tour of around the grounds brings the scene to life.  We were given audio transmitters that help describe the various locations on the property, often with stories and testimony by some who’ve witnessed the atrocities.

Although many of the victims had been unearthed for preservation or proper burial, mass graves still give a chilling reminder of what happened here.

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First hand evidence that many people had died here was easily seen as we walked.  We were told to mind our footsteps as bones, teeth and clothing of some of the victims still poked through the earth.

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One of the most emotional sites on our tour was The Killing Tree.  It was here that babies and small children were killed by smashing them against the tree as their mothers watched.  Loud music was played to drown out the screaming and crying.  When the reality of what had happened at Choeung Ek was discovered following the fall of the Khmer Rouge, the Killing Tree was still stained with the blood of the children.  Today, many tourists leave behind “lucky” bracelets received at the temples symbolizing the pain everyone feels for these young souls.

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After finishing our tour at the killing fields, we had short ride over to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.  This was the location where Pol Pot’s regime transformed the Tuol Svay Prey high school into the Khmer Rouge’s most notorious prison.  S-21, as it was called, was one of the places where thousands of victims (peasants, workers, engineers, doctors, professionals, students, monks, etc.) were imprisoned, and ultimately exterminated with their wives and children.   Walking through the the converted class rooms, it was easy to imagine the horror these people experienced.

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We ended our tours with our taxi driver, Sva patiently waiting to return us to the hotel.  It was definitely a quiet and solumn ride.  One of the most difficult facts to digest regarding what we’d seen was that all of this happened in modern times; it happened in MY lifetime.  Knowing the extent of the atrocities, I was hesitant to ask Sva if he had personally been effected.  As nearly 1/3 of the Cambodia population had been exterminated, it is pretty easy to surmise that everyone here has a personal connection.  Sva lost his brother.

***We encourage all who read this to learn more of the atrocities committed by Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge.  You could start by visiting cekillingfield.org.

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Cambodia – Day 8 – Culture

Today was all about the culture.  Through our hotel, we had scheduled a couple of boat tours.  The Mekong Silk Island Tour was our first tour of the day.  We were to cruise up the Mekong river to Silk Island where we’d be immersed in some rural Cambodian culture.  The second tour was the Sunset Cruise offered by the same company.

The company had arranged for us tuk tuk transportation from the hotel to the boat early this morning.  It was a quick ride with which we’d shared with a nice couple from Maine.  Although the dock was a little rustic, the boat was very clean, hospitable and charming.

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Both boat tours took us along the banks of the Mekong River to view different Cambodian life through a new prospective.  The views of the Royal Palace and the city skyline were quite amazing; particularly in the evening.

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The river banks were home to many different people.  Vietnamese who fled there country during the wars had built stilt homes and support themselves by fishing the Mekong.  During a heavy Monsoon season, the river has been known to rise up to the actual house.

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Further down the river is the Muslim fishing village.  These people are Cambodians whom, over a millennium ago, converted to Islam rather than Buddhism; they are know as the Cham.  The Cham spend nearly all of their time on their boats fishing, most of whom live with their families under the small cover on board.

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Further up the river we had reached our destination, a muddy point of entry to the weaving village on Silk Island.  As soon as we set foot on terra firma it was apparent that we’d caught the eye of the local children.

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We took a short walk to a traditional weaving home we were shown the entire process from silk worm to scarf.  Also given was the opportunity to purchase some handmade silk scarves and fabric.

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Horse cart was to be our next mode of transportation.  We traveled a few miles down a bumpy dirt road at a near gallop speed.  Children waved as we passed.

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A few miles down the road, we visited the home of one of the more wealthy residents of the town.  He was a famous Cambodian architect who’d passed away a few year back.  His sister lives there now.

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Other things we’d seen on the tour:

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Oh, and the children.  Who could forget the children.

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It was a fantastic day getting a of view of how many Cambodians live.  Beth and I would like to especially thank Ty Davuth and his partners for a truly unforgettable experience touring with Memorable Cambodia Cruises.

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Cambodia – Day 7 – Transition 2

Our trip to the temples and Siem Reap was now at its end.  The hospitality showed to us at check-out from the Golden Temple Hotel didn’t disappoint.  More gifts were given — free t-shirts — and they requested that we have our photograph taken with the reception staff.  In summary, our stay there was certainly one of the highlights of the vacation.

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We had a short flight from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh — forty minutes total in the air.  Shortly after take off, the Captain came over the overhead speaker with a very confident, slightly Irish(?) accent and announced the usual announcements.  Time of arrival, 12:25 p.m.  Temperature in PP, 31 degrees.  Significant weather, none.  Oh, and the co-pilot will be taking over the controls as he will be doing the paperwork.  Wait… what?  Honestly, that is first time I’ve ever heard that.  Regardless, with an absolutely perfect flare, that was the smoothest landing we’d ever experienced.

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Upon arrival, we procured a taxi to take us the hotel.  The driver, nick-named Sva (Khmer for monkey) spoke better English than many back in the U.S.  He was eager to get the fare, but was also getting hungry.  Our response, “let’s stop and grab some lunch.”  Sva’s reply, “Well, I would get street food.  It’s good for me, but probably not for you.  Not too clean.”  A friendly man, and well spoken, he was able to give some different insight on what we were seeing and what we were going to see.

Having stayed in one of the finest resorts and then in the most hospitable hotel, our expectations for our hotel in PP weren’t that high.  We were kind of expecting a let down.  Wow!  Were we wrong.  400 sqft of space to spread out in with 2 air conditioners!  And the location, was about perfect.

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We had a late lunch of green curry pork and pad thai at a restaurant on the corner — outside seating for better people watching.  Beth also got a mai tai.

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That night we had opted to walk the riverfront on the street in front of the hotel.  The area was whirlwind of activity.  As it turns out, every night after sunset many people come down to the riverfront park and in front of the Royal Palace to pray, meditate and congregate with others.  To me, it just looked like a lot of people waiting for a fireworks show or a parade.  Vendors sold snacks and beverages.  People sold lotus flowers, incense to burn and small birds that you could purchase and release for good luck.  There was also an area where 15 or 20 tables were set out where you might find an old psychic lady to read your fortune.

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The location of our hotel was fantastic for simply watching the world cruise by.  Beth spent some time on the balcony snapping  candid pics of anything that looked of interest.  The following photos were some of the best.

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Cambodia – Day 6 – Leisure

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The sun rose steadily over the city of Siem Reap breaking ground on a new day in this exotic land.  This day came with few expectations.  Despite receiving some pressure from yesterday’s tour guide and driver to secure them for a trip to Ton Le Sap Lake  (Southeast Asia’s largest fresh water lake) or the Kompong Phluk Forest, we opted to take on the day a little more leisurely.  We did consider finding our own way to Ton Le Sap or perhaps a helicopter ride around the temple areas.  However, the day ultimately was dominated by foot travel to the markets (to shop for souvenirs), Pub Street for lunch and dinner, and simply lounging around the hotel pool.

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Hospitality really should be the word of the day.  When we returned from lunch we were greeted with an ice cold hand towel lightly scented with lime.  An hour later sitting poolside after a quick dip, hotel staff brought out some refreshments — an iced bowl with glasses of refreshing coconut water and a sweet ginger citrus tea.  Oh, and hot, fresh banana fritters.  Later that afternoon Beth and I enjoyed a complimentary 1 hour Khmer style massage.  All wonderful things, but what really makes our stay memorable are the traditional greetings (palms together, slight bow) and the smiling faces of all of the staff.  It was they who deserve much applause and respect.

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With a little sadness, we will check out from The Golden Temple Hotel in the morning and leave Siem Reap.  Tomorrow, Phnom Penh.

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Cambodia – Day 5 – Temples

Today was our most anticipated day of this entire odyssey.  We hired a driver and an English speaking guide to show us the important sights for the day.  It turned out to be a wise decision considering our unfamiliarity with the surroundings.  Additionally, the guide gave us a lot history and perspective, and occasionally a better vantage point for photos.  We were to take trip back in time to when kings erected massive temple complexes to honor their gods and to serve as capitals and strategic military posts.   Cambodia’s Angkor period is defined by the 6 century ruling of the Khmer Empire during which many temples were erected.

TA PROHM  Ta Prohm — translated to “ancestor Brahma” —  was built between the 12th and 15th century.  Brahma was the god who created knowledge and universe.  Following the fall of the Khmer Empire in the 17th century, the temple was largely abandoned and began its decay.  In the 21st century, many foreign nations began to see the archaeological, historical and cultural importance in Ta Prohm, as well as other Angkor temples.  Money began to flow into construction projects headed by companies from different nations around the world in an attempt to preserve and/or restore many of these historical gems.  Ta Prohm also has a little significance in pop culture as it was the prime location for much of the filming of Tomb Raider starring Angelina Jolie.  Some have even nick-named it the Tomb Raider Temple.

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20151110_095325Lets look a little closer…

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Outside the temple was a band of landmine survivors playing traditional Cambodian music.  During Cambodia’s turbulent history in the 1970’s and 1980’s landmines had been placed throughout the country by different governments and factions including Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge.  The Cambodian Mine Action Centre estimates that there may be as many as four to six million mines and other unexploded ordnances in Cambodia.  Undetected mines still claim live every year.  In 2013, 22 people were killed and 89 were injured one third of which were children.

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TA KEO  Ta Keo was a temple built by the Khmer starting near the end of the 10th century.

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ANGKOR THOM  Angkor Thom — translates literally to to “Great City” — was the last and most enduring capital city of the Khmer empire.  Completed in the 13th century,  this massive temple complex covers nearly 3.5 square miles and contains many temples; the most impressive being Bayon.  Bayon is most noted for its 216 larger-than-life smiling faces carved in stone.  Other breathtaking sights include the Phimeanakas temple and the Elephant Terrace.

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ANGKOR WAT  Angkor Wat — meaning “Capital Temple” — is arguably the most impressive of all of Cambodia’s Temples.  As it stands it is the largest religious monument in the world.  It was originally constructed as a Hindu temple in the early 12th century, but had been gradually transformed into a Buddhist temple by the end of the 12th century.

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With all of our anticipation on visiting the temple sites, we honestly felt a little overwelmed.  Having a guide was helpful, but there still seemed to be a sense of urgency to get ALL of the shots — partially because of the heat, and partially the crowds.  I felt a little disappointed leaving without some sense of heightened spirituality.  If I were to make this journey again, I would probably plan to spend 2 whole days among the temples.  One for looking though the lens; and one for looking through the eyes.  Despite that little gripe, it truly was an amazing day.

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Cambodia – Day 4 – Transition

Well it appears that our time by the sea is coming to a close.  Throughout the year leading up to this SE Asia adventure, we had often overlooked the enjoyment that we’d get staying in Sihanoukville.  Sitting on the beach and swimming in the warm waters of the Pacific was merely a strategic plan for resting and recovering from any ill effects of flying for 24 hours.  As it turns out, this leg of the trip will certainly resonate as happy memories.

I unintentionally awoke extra early this particular morning.  It did provide an opportunity to capture some more quiet photos.

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Exploring down the beach just beyond the Otres 2 resort area, I had found another world.  Much like most tourist areas, we only get to see the facade which always appears clean, friendly, and inviting.  Behind the scenes or around the corner often present a different reality.  On this particular walk, I strolled into what seemed to be a seaside garbage dump.  Trash of all kinds (mostly discarded water bottles) were strewn about as though they belonged there.  I’m certain that most of it had been delivered by the tides.  It saddened me a little to see such a negative bi-product of man polluting a paradise such a this.

A few dilapidated houses also sat along a small river which emptied right into the sea about 1/2 mile from our resort.  It seemed obvious that those who lived there scavenged to help make ends meet and they took no more than what was useful.

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Enjoying our last hours of serenity on the beach, we remembered we had a promise to fullfil.  Hang was a 10 year old boy in the body of a 5 year old and he sold bracelets, headbands and such.  And this kid was sharp!  We’d pinky promised a few days earlier that we would buy something and he wouldn’t let us forget.  We pick out a few things and then negotiated a price.  We played rock, paper, scissors to fine tune how much I would pay, and this kid smoked me in 4 straight rounds; I’m certain that I overpaid significantly.

 

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With this phase of our trip completed, we took a tuk tuk to the Sihanoukville airport in order to catch a plane to Siem Reap.  I took a few photos to help show a truer representation of how many here lived.

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For the short 40 minute flight, we had hoped that it was a prop plane and that we’d be surrounded by goats and chickns.  I guess you could say we were a little dispointed.

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We would just like to say, The Golden Temple Hotel knows what customer service is all about.  Upon arrival, they asked us to sit on long comfortable couches while the took care of our reservation.  They then brought us ice cold wash clothes, iced green tea and Khmer style peanuts.  Then came the fresh fruit, sticky rice and complementary beverage.  Before escorting us to our room they presented us each with a traditional scarf as a gift.

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Following a quick shower, Beth and I ventured a few blocks into the center of the city in search of the Night Market and Pub Street.  Within a few minutes we immersed in a world of food, booze, music and fun.  Restaurants and bars lined the street; food vendors of all sorts sat on sidewalks and curbs.  Although intrigued, we didn’t muster the courage to try any of the fried grasshoppers, crickets, roaches or tarantula.  It’s important to leave some experiences for a return trip.

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Although more time is necessary to explore the markets and Pub Street, rest was also needed for tomorrow we conquer the temples!

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Cambodia – Day 3 – Survivor

Enter, another quiet morning on South Pacific coast at Otres 2 Beach.   A light breakfast beside the still waters.  Based on the fact that we’ve enjoyed our breakfasts nearly alone, I would surmise that European tourists like to sleep late when vacationing.

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Beth and I have always been big fans of Survivor and we were elated when we learned that the current season was being filmed in Cambodia. More specifically on the island named Koh Rong.  So, months before beginning this journey, we had dreamed of finding the beaches where the Angkor, Bayon, and Ta Kae tribes spend there 39 days.  Our journey to get there began with a 25 minute tuk tuk ride from the hotel to Ochheuteal Beach.

Having made this trip a few times in the past days, I wanted to share a glimpse of what we’d seen en route.  Because it seems to be frowned upon to photograph or film the Cambodian people, I tried to discretely capture some of what we’d seen.  The conditions many of these people live in can only be described as total squaller.   Such images certainly make you think and reflect upon your own life.

Arriving in town, the scenery returned to a more touristic environment.  It is a town that seems to devote itself to the young backpackers out in search of their own adventures.  Rooms can be rented for $8 per night; $12 if you want air conditioning.  Beer is cheap, food is cheap.  It’s a colorful place with streets lined by bars, restaurants, and guesthouses.  It sort of feels like a spring break town, but on a slightly filthier level.

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We had arrived at the pier 40 minutes early where we’d catch the fast boat to Koh Rong.  Fortunately there was an open air bar on the pier where we could escape the ever intensifying rays of the sun.

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We snapped a few photos of the surrounding scenery as we sipped our pops.

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As the boat arrived 25 minutes late the crowds grew bigger.  By that time the temperature was well into the 90’s.  If you Googled “Cluster Fuck” and dug down deep enough, I am certain you would find a reference to the Speed Ferry Cambodia loading and unloading procedures.  Two hundred or more eager young travelers with their oversized rucksacks all gathered near the point of embarkation at the same point and time hundreds more needed to exit the boat.  Beth and I thought long and hard about whether we wanted to be part of the chaos under the scorching sun simply to indulge our desire and hope of finding a particular beach on Cambodia’s largest island.  We opted to skip and just get some lunch by the beachside.  The fried rice was good; the margarita pizza, not so much.  One thing I have learned from this trip is to never use a restroom located “out back”.  You will see things that you shouldn’t see.

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Our tuk tuk needed to refuel on our return trip.

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Despite having failed to reach our intended destination for the day, it is difficult to end the day without feelings of appreciation and gratitude.

 

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