Tag Archives: arusha

Tanzania – Day 9 – Ngorongoro Crater

Last night was exciting!  Lights out around 10pm or so at the Ngorongoro Crater Wildcamp, Taylor and I lay there in silence, just listening.  We could hear twigs and small brush breaking from footfalls just outside our tent.  Curiosity was not going to allow us to simply lie there and fall asleep.  We unzipped a couple of the windows and used the LED from an IPhone to shed a little light onto what was creeping around out there.  There was movement, but no definitive identification could be made.  I felt confident that it was probably something harmless as I believed that I could hear it chewing — grass perhaps.  In an instant, something startled our mystery guests.  Out of nothingness, about 6 or so zebras jumped and ran directly toward our tent before quickly veering away and heading back out into the darkness.  Exciting, heart-pounding, to say the least.  Although we were not entirely sure what spooked our herbivore friends, from the calls we could hear, I am certain they were hyenas.

The predawn hours were chilly as usual.  You never really think about it being “chilly” in Africa, but at night in the higher altitudes temperatures can easily drop into the low 40’s, sometimes 30’s.

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We descended into the Ngorongoro  crater in the early morning.  The fog had lifted off of the ground, but still served as a lid over the entire caldera.  The dampness in the air helped moisten the roads and keep the dust to a minimum.

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With its abundant fields of grass and some permanent water holes, the crater seemed as though it were a perfect refuge for the grazers of Tanzania.  Wide open spaces giving them distant views and plenty of warning of any predators in the area.

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Warthogs seem to be ever-present in Tanzania, and there was no exception in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.  Largely herbivores, we often find them kneeling on the forelegs rooting their snouts into the earth in search  of roots and tubers.

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Lions were also found throughout the park.  Having no real predators here, these animals seem to feel comfortable lounging anywhere they please.

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One of the most prized sightings in Africa is the Black Rhino.  Nearly extinct, Peter explained, it would be difficult to find this member of the “Big 5” as there are only 17 left in the park.  On this particular morning it appeared that luck and good fortune had shone upon us.

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It took a lot patience to wait for the massive beast to awaken from his slumber and stand so that we could all get a good look at him.  Although we were a long distance away, it was easy to be impressed by the size and stoutness of this biological tank.  To allow this animal to slip into extinction would be a crime.

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The habitat here was also very hospitable for many bird species, as well.  We were able to get some nice shots of Tanzania’s national bird, the Crowned Crane.  In addition, we got a couple of good vantage points for the flocks of pink flamingos that migrate through.

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The hippos here were also in abundance.  We were finally able to get pictures of more than just their backs.

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Following a couple of photos along side the hippo pool with our new friend, Peter, we began the steep assent of the crater wall.  A very narrow, cobblestone road, I felt quite fortunate to have an experienced driver here.  One slip or mistake and it would be difficult to recover.

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Leaving the Ngorongoro crater and park, my mood was a bit melancoly.  Not to downplay our desire to return to our families, the only thing left was our long slog home — five flights over the next 48 hours.  It really meant that, for all intents and purposes, our African adventure was coming to a close.  We wouldn’t be seeing any more animals, other than cows and goats.  No more lions, elephants, giraffes.

We were delivered to the Arusha Airport within a few hours of our flight back to Dar es Salaam.  With a little emotion and heartfelt farewells, we said goodbye to our friend, Peter.  I am happy that we live in the age of technology and the internet.  Via Facebook and other social media, I am certain we will remain friends.

Having come to the close of our 5 day/4 night safari I can only provide to my friends the highest of recommendations for Agama Tours.  They were affordable, knowledgeable and helpful.  The accommodations they provided along the way were no less than perfect.  Our guide, Peter, was phenomenal.  His knowledge of the land and animals was fantastic.  He knew where to go and how to get the best vantage points to see all of the animals.  He was also very attentive to our needs and comforts.  It certainly seemed to be his honest mission to make our safari the adventure of a lifetime.  Well, he succeeded.

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Tanzania – Day 5 – Tarangire National Park

This morning was another early rise.  Peter, from Agama Tours, picked us up promptly at 7 am.  Our vehicle, an extended Toyota Land Cruiser outfitted with a removable top and plenty of sliding windows  for proper wildlife viewing.  These Land Cruisers are the only vehicles tough enough for the rugged terrain of the Serengeti.

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After a quick stop within the city of Arush to pick up some bottled water and other provisions, we headed out toward Tarangire National Park.  The drive was a little long so we passed the time by sight-seeing, writing, sudoku and napping.

Driving west on a well paved, asphalt highway we began to see the vast open spaces of the Tanzanian grasslands.  You might expect a lot of green, but because we are in the dry season all of the ground cover is a light yellowish tan broken up by sage colored shrubs and small trees.  At this point, since we are still a distance from the parks, we have not yet seen any wild animals.  Only frequent herds of cows usually led by a Massai teenagers.

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On this first day of our safari we were joined by a good looking young couple who are out for just a 1 day excursion.  Minel (Spain) and Bruna (Portugal) were a couple of medical students who are spending a month volunteering their time in local villages.

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As we entered the Tarangerie National Park, the nations sixth largest national park, we were all brimming with excitement to see some real wildlife.  The first animal we happened upon was a lonely old wildebeest.  Wow!  We took nearly a hundred pictures and joked that he had a rope holding him there just for our viewing.  Peter must have been laughing inside for he knew better of what was to come.

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And yes, there was so much more to come.  I really was expecting most of the wildlife to be elusive and difficult to find, but that is furthest from the truth.  For the next several hours, we were inundated with new and exciting scenes at every turn.

Here are some of the notable pictures of the animals and scenery as we saw them:

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IMG_0729Young impalla

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IMG_0773Velvet monkey

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IMG_0876Male and female ostrich

20160725_144325Baboons were always fun to watch

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It was often obvious when there was something unique to see.  As many as 20 or so Land Crusiers would line up to watch.

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20160725_155531A little added adventure

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Tanzania – Day 4 – Transition

Today was all about getting to Arusha, the starting point for our safari.  We needed to start early to catch the ferry, to catch the cab, to catch the plane.  Probably one of my least favorite places in Tanzania is the ferry dock.  Huge crowds.  And so many people to carry so few bags.  Ten thousand shillings… ten thousand shillings… ten thousand shillings for everyone!  Oh, that’s not enough?  Twenty thousand shillings!  I later found out that I was way over-tipping.  It was difficult dealing with the onslaught of “help” so early in the morning, but we managed.

After we made the crossing to Dar es Salaam (DAR) and the mainland, we found George (our first taxi driver).  It was nice seeing him waiting for us because he was quite friendly and spoke really good English.  As it turned out, we had more than enough time to make our transitional flight so George took us to an upper-end hotel on the peninsula for breakfast.  The crepes were excellent and the views, spectacular!

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Following breakfast we took a detour through one of the more impoverished neigborhoods of DAR.  Unlike the slums we are used to seeing in Detroit where the streets often seem desolate, these were packed with people and activity.  It is difficult to imagine the conditions that so many have actually grown accustomed to living in.

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After a long day of travel, we transitioned from the coastal region of Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam to the country’s interior on the northeast side of Tanzania.  Our flight out of the old, primitive airport of DAR took us to the remote airport in Arusha.  Although it is within a few minutes of the cities 1.5 million people, it certainly gave the impression that we were deep within the heart of Africa.  The trip was particularly unique as it was the first flight I’ve had on a commercial twin-engine turboprop airplane that was very capable of carrying 78 deodorantly deficient people.  Taylor and I laughed about how some many of these passengers must have been nicknamed “Bo”.

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Our final hotel before the safari was the Mount Meru Hotel, a five-star all the way — the finest in all of Arusha.  We engaged in a little downtime by the pool and then a delicious dinner at one of their fine restaurants.  Dad ordered the chef’s beef stew with ugali on the side.  Ugali is somewhat considered a national dish in Tanzania and is often served with beef, chicken, or fish prepared in different ways.  Its essentially a thick porridge made of corn meal and has the appearance and texture of a large dumpling, perhaps.  It’s taste was of bland, finely ground grits and strangely reminded us of unsalted cauliflower.

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We ended the evening with a lot of emotions.  Taylor was feeling homesick and missed Paul; I was missing Beth.  But after a little video chat with our loved ones, we had felt better.

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