Tag Archives: ngorongoro

Tanzania – Day 9 – Ngorongoro Crater

Last night was exciting!  Lights out around 10pm or so at the Ngorongoro Crater Wildcamp, Taylor and I lay there in silence, just listening.  We could hear twigs and small brush breaking from footfalls just outside our tent.  Curiosity was not going to allow us to simply lie there and fall asleep.  We unzipped a couple of the windows and used the LED from an IPhone to shed a little light onto what was creeping around out there.  There was movement, but no definitive identification could be made.  I felt confident that it was probably something harmless as I believed that I could hear it chewing — grass perhaps.  In an instant, something startled our mystery guests.  Out of nothingness, about 6 or so zebras jumped and ran directly toward our tent before quickly veering away and heading back out into the darkness.  Exciting, heart-pounding, to say the least.  Although we were not entirely sure what spooked our herbivore friends, from the calls we could hear, I am certain they were hyenas.

The predawn hours were chilly as usual.  You never really think about it being “chilly” in Africa, but at night in the higher altitudes temperatures can easily drop into the low 40’s, sometimes 30’s.

20160729_071259

We descended into the Ngorongoro  crater in the early morning.  The fog had lifted off of the ground, but still served as a lid over the entire caldera.  The dampness in the air helped moisten the roads and keep the dust to a minimum.

20160729_080645

With its abundant fields of grass and some permanent water holes, the crater seemed as though it were a perfect refuge for the grazers of Tanzania.  Wide open spaces giving them distant views and plenty of warning of any predators in the area.

IMG_1624

20160729_080742

IMG_1431

Warthogs seem to be ever-present in Tanzania, and there was no exception in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.  Largely herbivores, we often find them kneeling on the forelegs rooting their snouts into the earth in search  of roots and tubers.

20160729_101254

Lions were also found throughout the park.  Having no real predators here, these animals seem to feel comfortable lounging anywhere they please.

IMG_1672

IMG_1673

IMG_1675

One of the most prized sightings in Africa is the Black Rhino.  Nearly extinct, Peter explained, it would be difficult to find this member of the “Big 5” as there are only 17 left in the park.  On this particular morning it appeared that luck and good fortune had shone upon us.

IMG_1448

IMG_1454

It took a lot patience to wait for the massive beast to awaken from his slumber and stand so that we could all get a good look at him.  Although we were a long distance away, it was easy to be impressed by the size and stoutness of this biological tank.  To allow this animal to slip into extinction would be a crime.

IMG_1661

The habitat here was also very hospitable for many bird species, as well.  We were able to get some nice shots of Tanzania’s national bird, the Crowned Crane.  In addition, we got a couple of good vantage points for the flocks of pink flamingos that migrate through.

IMG_1630

IMG_1632

IMG_1634

The hippos here were also in abundance.  We were finally able to get pictures of more than just their backs.

IMG_1436

IMG_1437

20160729_094612

IMG_1466

Following a couple of photos along side the hippo pool with our new friend, Peter, we began the steep assent of the crater wall.  A very narrow, cobblestone road, I felt quite fortunate to have an experienced driver here.  One slip or mistake and it would be difficult to recover.

IMG_1493

IMG_1491

Leaving the Ngorongoro crater and park, my mood was a bit melancoly.  Not to downplay our desire to return to our families, the only thing left was our long slog home — five flights over the next 48 hours.  It really meant that, for all intents and purposes, our African adventure was coming to a close.  We wouldn’t be seeing any more animals, other than cows and goats.  No more lions, elephants, giraffes.

We were delivered to the Arusha Airport within a few hours of our flight back to Dar es Salaam.  With a little emotion and heartfelt farewells, we said goodbye to our friend, Peter.  I am happy that we live in the age of technology and the internet.  Via Facebook and other social media, I am certain we will remain friends.

Having come to the close of our 5 day/4 night safari I can only provide to my friends the highest of recommendations for Agama Tours.  They were affordable, knowledgeable and helpful.  The accommodations they provided along the way were no less than perfect.  Our guide, Peter, was phenomenal.  His knowledge of the land and animals was fantastic.  He knew where to go and how to get the best vantage points to see all of the animals.  He was also very attentive to our needs and comforts.  It certainly seemed to be his honest mission to make our safari the adventure of a lifetime.  Well, he succeeded.

Share Button

Tanzania – Day 8 – More Serengeti

(dedicated to Courtney L. for motivating me to finish this article)

The Serengeti Wild Camp is located somewhere near Seronera, but quite honestly, 100 miles from any real civilization.   Sleeping in the middle of the Serengeti was very exciting, yet quite peaceful.   No walls or fences to protect us from the predators of the night, we were completely exposed to the wilderness.  In the dark hours you could hear the activity around us.  A couple Dik-Diks wandered through the middle of our camp while making their calls that sound much like a high pitch cluck from a wild turkey.  We confirmed the animals in the morning by the deposit they’d left on the trail to the dining tent.

By daybreak, we were out again on the game drive.  It is in the earliest hours of the day that the animals are most active.  Although I find it difficult to justify ever being up so early, we were almost immediately rewarded with the most amazing sunrise.

IMG_1222

Taylor, who almost never wakes up this early, was also now suffering for a second day with nasty cold.  Though she really didn’t have a choice, I applaud her for toughing-it-out and making the best of the situation.  Despite feeling rough, she still got excited seeing her favorite animal, the giraffe.

IMG_1488

IMG_1492

IMG_1396

20160728_143644

20160728_080231Baboons on the move

IMG_1310Cape Buffalo on the move

20160728_091118

IMG_1230

On the hit list for today was more hippos, lions, a leopard, cheetah, and any other exotic species we happen upon.   So we move on to the hippo pools.  The hippopotamus typically emerges at night to graze on the grass of the plains before returning to their water sheds to keep cool during the day.  This morning we had found most of them already submerged back under the water.

IMG_1252

IMG_1268

IMG_1521

IMG_1274

As I have mentioned before, the Tanzania has a plethora of exotic birds.

IMG_1262Unfortunately, I don’t know the name of this bird

IMG_1355Secretary Bird

IMG_1377Kori Bustard

IMG_1502Topi

IMG_1285

IMG_1541

IMG_1620Golden Jackal

IMG_1248Grant’s Gazzelle

IMG_1227Pack of Mongoose

IMG_1406A couple of Dik-diks

IMG_1340

For months leading up to the trip, I’ve heard Connor talk about his favorite animal to be found in Africa, the Hyrax.  Although it looks much like a large guinea pig or rodent, the hyrax has similar teeth, toes and skull structures as the elephant.  These little animals actually share similar ancestry as the elephant.  Although, I would have never found them, Connor spotted a few throughout the day.

IMG_1352Rock Hyrax

IMG_1592

The quest on most safaris is generally to encounter all of the “Big 5” animals.  The term “Big 5” was coined by big-game hunters for the animals which are typically the most difficult and dangerous to hunt on foot.  They include the elephant, rhinoceros, lion, leopard and cape buffalo.

Although not one of the “Big 5”, my favorite was another big cat, the the ever-elusive cheetah.  We had the good fortune to find one this day and he provided us a great photo shoot.

IMG_1347

IMG_1583

IMG_1580

IMG_1584

Even with all of the other sightings on this drive, it was the lions that seemed to steal the show.  The opportunities to see these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat seemed to be endless.

20160728_092034

IMG_1597

IMG_1570

IMG_1565

IMG_1332

IMG_1321

IMG_1264

IMG_1291

IMG_1368

IMG_1372

With the hours slipping away, we made the trek south back toward the Ngorongoro Crater.  Knowing everyone’s dislike for the long and dusty road that brought us into heart of the Serengeti, Peter took an alternate route that kept us far from all of the other vehicles.  The much less traveled path took though a Massai “village”, where we made a rest stop, and then along some more remote and rugged roads.  It was definitely the better route.

20160728_162043

20160728_163329

We arrived at our final overnight destination the Ngorongoro Wild Camp in the early evening.  Located on the outer rim of the Crater, the camp was made up of about a dozen semi-permanent tents affixed upon stilted platforms.  They had hardwood floors and full bathrooms with ceramic tiling — again… glamping.

At check-in we ate little fried “donuts” and drank complimentary hibiscus juice.  They informed us that after dark, we were not allowed to wander without the accompaniment of a Massai warrior due to the dangerous animals that often wander through after sundown.

20160728_171434

20160728_171827

This evening’s dining did not disappoint.  Via buffet, they provided, in my opinion, the best supper I’d had throughout the trip.  Although similar dishes to those thoughout the safari — tender stir fried beef, roasted chicken, rice and different vegetables — here, they were better cooked and much more flavorful.

20160728_173313

With full bellies and the anticipation of what we’ll see on the final day of our safari, we retired for the night.  All hope was to sleep like a well fed baby.

IMG_1607

Share Button

Tanzania – Day 7 – Serengeti

We departed the Flamingo Safari Lodge at an early hour knowing that we needed to cover nearly 100 miles to reach the Serengeti by the end of the day.  I’m sure most people are thinking… “100 miles?  That’s not very far.”  Let me tell you, it wasn’t an easy trip.

Driving through the town of Karatu we learned that it had the nickname “dusty city”.  Literally, everything had a reddish brown hue from the layer of dust that settles everywhere.  In the early morning, many folks were busy dampening the ground with water to help mitigate the problem.

20160727_081258

At the gate to Ngorongoro Conservation Area, which was only a few miles from Karatu, we were required to purchase the necessary permits to enter the park.  As part of the price of the safari, Agama Tours would cover the purchase of all permits and entrance fees.  Unfortunately, this process took a considerable amount of time.  As explained by Peter, a new system for payment has been terribly slow and is causing logjams at the gates.  On the upside, the park entrance had a coffee shop, gift store, information, and bathrooms.

IMG_1053

IMG_1055Baboons inspect the supply shipments

Once cleared to enter, we proceeded into the dense forest along the narrow,  bumpy dirt road, wildly twisting  back-and-forth as we ascended the south rim of the crater.  At the summit came our first look into this magnificent geological wonder.

The Ngorongoro Crater is the worlds largest inactive, intact and unfilled volcanic caldera — in 2013, it was named as one of Africa’s Seven Natural Wonders.  Inside the rim, lies about 100 square miles of mostly flat land that serve as a grazing location for many species.  Our itinerary will lead us down into the caldera on Friday where we hope to see one of the 17 remaining black rhinos.

20160727_110123

IMG_1077

20160727_122425

IMG_1401I think we found a weak WIFI signal!

The road through the conservation area and into the Serengeti National Park was ridiculously rough — I was certain my fillings were going to shake out.  And, I believe Peter later referred to it as the “Serengeti massage”.  To travel here in any ordinary vehicle would be nearly impossible.

The endless migration of Land Cruisers made the 2 hour drive an exercise in patience.  Every time a vehicle passed, we would close all of the windows for a few seconds to limit the amount of dust we inhaled.  We did this a couple times per minute during most of the drive.  And despite our attempts, we all had nasal passages that were literally packed with dirt.

IMG_1114

20160727_133104

A few miles into the Serengeti National Park we arrived at the Naabi Hill park office to take care of another permit.  The location was set up perfectly as a picnic area and had a fantastic vantage point look out over the Serengeti.

20160727_144753

20160727_144737

20160727_144328

IMG_1119Red-Headed Agama

Continuing further into the park, it was apparent as to how it was named.  Serengeti mean “endless plains” in the Massai language.  The terrain in many places went from the golden brown to a charcoal black as controlled burns have been used to allow the new green grass shoots to take root and gain exposure to the sun.

20160727_162520

20160727_171433

20160727_163844

Despite the wide open spaces, animals could be seen everywhere.

IMG_1110Grant’s Gazzelle

IMG_1138Hartebeest

IMG_1141

IMG_1142Kori Bustard, Africa’s largest flying bird

IMG_1145

IMG_1433

IMG_1153Black-backed Jackal

IMG_1439

IMG_1437Spotted Hyena

IMG_1445The Dik-Dik is a miniature antelope growing up to 17″ tall.

IMG_1171

IMG_1177

IMG_1463

Driving around the outcrops of large mounds of boulders in search of big cats, Taylor asked, “Is that real?  Or is that a sculpture carved in stone?”  What the…?  Blending in perfectly by color and shape was an elephant standing up on the hill.  Peter said he’d seen tracks leading up there before, but never actually caught the animal in the act.

IMG_1444

We had the good fortune of  coming upon a male and female lion in the process of courting.  They eventually mated as a half dozen trucks were parked within gawking distance.  It is unusual to see this as it isn’t necessarily mating season.

IMG_1476

IMG_1474

The scene actually was double feature — lion porn to the east and the most amazing sunset to the west.

IMG_1195

IMG_1204

We ended our long day at the Serengeti Wild Camp.  We had two tents that were outfitted with mosquito netted beds, private hot showers and private toilets.  As camping goes, this was true luxary.  “Glamping”, perhaps.

20160728_062309

20160728_062404

20160728_062348

Share Button