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Tanzania – Day 8 – More Serengeti

(dedicated to Courtney L. for motivating me to finish this article)

The Serengeti Wild Camp is located somewhere near Seronera, but quite honestly, 100 miles from any real civilization.   Sleeping in the middle of the Serengeti was very exciting, yet quite peaceful.   No walls or fences to protect us from the predators of the night, we were completely exposed to the wilderness.  In the dark hours you could hear the activity around us.  A couple Dik-Diks wandered through the middle of our camp while making their calls that sound much like a high pitch cluck from a wild turkey.  We confirmed the animals in the morning by the deposit they’d left on the trail to the dining tent.

By daybreak, we were out again on the game drive.  It is in the earliest hours of the day that the animals are most active.  Although I find it difficult to justify ever being up so early, we were almost immediately rewarded with the most amazing sunrise.

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Taylor, who almost never wakes up this early, was also now suffering for a second day with nasty cold.  Though she really didn’t have a choice, I applaud her for toughing-it-out and making the best of the situation.  Despite feeling rough, she still got excited seeing her favorite animal, the giraffe.

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20160728_080231Baboons on the move

IMG_1310Cape Buffalo on the move

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On the hit list for today was more hippos, lions, a leopard, cheetah, and any other exotic species we happen upon.   So we move on to the hippo pools.  The hippopotamus typically emerges at night to graze on the grass of the plains before returning to their water sheds to keep cool during the day.  This morning we had found most of them already submerged back under the water.

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As I have mentioned before, the Tanzania has a plethora of exotic birds.

IMG_1262Unfortunately, I don’t know the name of this bird

IMG_1355Secretary Bird

IMG_1377Kori Bustard

IMG_1502Topi

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IMG_1620Golden Jackal

IMG_1248Grant’s Gazzelle

IMG_1227Pack of Mongoose

IMG_1406A couple of Dik-diks

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For months leading up to the trip, I’ve heard Connor talk about his favorite animal to be found in Africa, the Hyrax.  Although it looks much like a large guinea pig or rodent, the hyrax has similar teeth, toes and skull structures as the elephant.  These little animals actually share similar ancestry as the elephant.  Although, I would have never found them, Connor spotted a few throughout the day.

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The quest on most safaris is generally to encounter all of the “Big 5” animals.  The term “Big 5” was coined by big-game hunters for the animals which are typically the most difficult and dangerous to hunt on foot.  They include the elephant, rhinoceros, lion, leopard and cape buffalo.

Although not one of the “Big 5”, my favorite was another big cat, the the ever-elusive cheetah.  We had the good fortune to find one this day and he provided us a great photo shoot.

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Even with all of the other sightings on this drive, it was the lions that seemed to steal the show.  The opportunities to see these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat seemed to be endless.

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With the hours slipping away, we made the trek south back toward the Ngorongoro Crater.  Knowing everyone’s dislike for the long and dusty road that brought us into heart of the Serengeti, Peter took an alternate route that kept us far from all of the other vehicles.  The much less traveled path took though a Massai “village”, where we made a rest stop, and then along some more remote and rugged roads.  It was definitely the better route.

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We arrived at our final overnight destination the Ngorongoro Wild Camp in the early evening.  Located on the outer rim of the Crater, the camp was made up of about a dozen semi-permanent tents affixed upon stilted platforms.  They had hardwood floors and full bathrooms with ceramic tiling — again… glamping.

At check-in we ate little fried “donuts” and drank complimentary hibiscus juice.  They informed us that after dark, we were not allowed to wander without the accompaniment of a Massai warrior due to the dangerous animals that often wander through after sundown.

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This evening’s dining did not disappoint.  Via buffet, they provided, in my opinion, the best supper I’d had throughout the trip.  Although similar dishes to those thoughout the safari — tender stir fried beef, roasted chicken, rice and different vegetables — here, they were better cooked and much more flavorful.

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With full bellies and the anticipation of what we’ll see on the final day of our safari, we retired for the night.  All hope was to sleep like a well fed baby.

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Tanzania – Day 7 – Serengeti

We departed the Flamingo Safari Lodge at an early hour knowing that we needed to cover nearly 100 miles to reach the Serengeti by the end of the day.  I’m sure most people are thinking… “100 miles?  That’s not very far.”  Let me tell you, it wasn’t an easy trip.

Driving through the town of Karatu we learned that it had the nickname “dusty city”.  Literally, everything had a reddish brown hue from the layer of dust that settles everywhere.  In the early morning, many folks were busy dampening the ground with water to help mitigate the problem.

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At the gate to Ngorongoro Conservation Area, which was only a few miles from Karatu, we were required to purchase the necessary permits to enter the park.  As part of the price of the safari, Agama Tours would cover the purchase of all permits and entrance fees.  Unfortunately, this process took a considerable amount of time.  As explained by Peter, a new system for payment has been terribly slow and is causing logjams at the gates.  On the upside, the park entrance had a coffee shop, gift store, information, and bathrooms.

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IMG_1055Baboons inspect the supply shipments

Once cleared to enter, we proceeded into the dense forest along the narrow,  bumpy dirt road, wildly twisting  back-and-forth as we ascended the south rim of the crater.  At the summit came our first look into this magnificent geological wonder.

The Ngorongoro Crater is the worlds largest inactive, intact and unfilled volcanic caldera — in 2013, it was named as one of Africa’s Seven Natural Wonders.  Inside the rim, lies about 100 square miles of mostly flat land that serve as a grazing location for many species.  Our itinerary will lead us down into the caldera on Friday where we hope to see one of the 17 remaining black rhinos.

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IMG_1401I think we found a weak WIFI signal!

The road through the conservation area and into the Serengeti National Park was ridiculously rough — I was certain my fillings were going to shake out.  And, I believe Peter later referred to it as the “Serengeti massage”.  To travel here in any ordinary vehicle would be nearly impossible.

The endless migration of Land Cruisers made the 2 hour drive an exercise in patience.  Every time a vehicle passed, we would close all of the windows for a few seconds to limit the amount of dust we inhaled.  We did this a couple times per minute during most of the drive.  And despite our attempts, we all had nasal passages that were literally packed with dirt.

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A few miles into the Serengeti National Park we arrived at the Naabi Hill park office to take care of another permit.  The location was set up perfectly as a picnic area and had a fantastic vantage point look out over the Serengeti.

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IMG_1119Red-Headed Agama

Continuing further into the park, it was apparent as to how it was named.  Serengeti mean “endless plains” in the Massai language.  The terrain in many places went from the golden brown to a charcoal black as controlled burns have been used to allow the new green grass shoots to take root and gain exposure to the sun.

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Despite the wide open spaces, animals could be seen everywhere.

IMG_1110Grant’s Gazzelle

IMG_1138Hartebeest

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IMG_1142Kori Bustard, Africa’s largest flying bird

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IMG_1153Black-backed Jackal

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IMG_1437Spotted Hyena

IMG_1445The Dik-Dik is a miniature antelope growing up to 17″ tall.

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Driving around the outcrops of large mounds of boulders in search of big cats, Taylor asked, “Is that real?  Or is that a sculpture carved in stone?”  What the…?  Blending in perfectly by color and shape was an elephant standing up on the hill.  Peter said he’d seen tracks leading up there before, but never actually caught the animal in the act.

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We had the good fortune of  coming upon a male and female lion in the process of courting.  They eventually mated as a half dozen trucks were parked within gawking distance.  It is unusual to see this as it isn’t necessarily mating season.

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The scene actually was double feature — lion porn to the east and the most amazing sunset to the west.

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We ended our long day at the Serengeti Wild Camp.  We had two tents that were outfitted with mosquito netted beds, private hot showers and private toilets.  As camping goes, this was true luxary.  “Glamping”, perhaps.

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