Tag Archives: sunset

Tanzania – Day 7 – Serengeti

We departed the Flamingo Safari Lodge at an early hour knowing that we needed to cover nearly 100 miles to reach the Serengeti by the end of the day.  I’m sure most people are thinking… “100 miles?  That’s not very far.”  Let me tell you, it wasn’t an easy trip.

Driving through the town of Karatu we learned that it had the nickname “dusty city”.  Literally, everything had a reddish brown hue from the layer of dust that settles everywhere.  In the early morning, many folks were busy dampening the ground with water to help mitigate the problem.

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At the gate to Ngorongoro Conservation Area, which was only a few miles from Karatu, we were required to purchase the necessary permits to enter the park.  As part of the price of the safari, Agama Tours would cover the purchase of all permits and entrance fees.  Unfortunately, this process took a considerable amount of time.  As explained by Peter, a new system for payment has been terribly slow and is causing logjams at the gates.  On the upside, the park entrance had a coffee shop, gift store, information, and bathrooms.

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IMG_1055Baboons inspect the supply shipments

Once cleared to enter, we proceeded into the dense forest along the narrow,  bumpy dirt road, wildly twisting  back-and-forth as we ascended the south rim of the crater.  At the summit came our first look into this magnificent geological wonder.

The Ngorongoro Crater is the worlds largest inactive, intact and unfilled volcanic caldera — in 2013, it was named as one of Africa’s Seven Natural Wonders.  Inside the rim, lies about 100 square miles of mostly flat land that serve as a grazing location for many species.  Our itinerary will lead us down into the caldera on Friday where we hope to see one of the 17 remaining black rhinos.

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IMG_1401I think we found a weak WIFI signal!

The road through the conservation area and into the Serengeti National Park was ridiculously rough — I was certain my fillings were going to shake out.  And, I believe Peter later referred to it as the “Serengeti massage”.  To travel here in any ordinary vehicle would be nearly impossible.

The endless migration of Land Cruisers made the 2 hour drive an exercise in patience.  Every time a vehicle passed, we would close all of the windows for a few seconds to limit the amount of dust we inhaled.  We did this a couple times per minute during most of the drive.  And despite our attempts, we all had nasal passages that were literally packed with dirt.

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A few miles into the Serengeti National Park we arrived at the Naabi Hill park office to take care of another permit.  The location was set up perfectly as a picnic area and had a fantastic vantage point look out over the Serengeti.

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IMG_1119Red-Headed Agama

Continuing further into the park, it was apparent as to how it was named.  Serengeti mean “endless plains” in the Massai language.  The terrain in many places went from the golden brown to a charcoal black as controlled burns have been used to allow the new green grass shoots to take root and gain exposure to the sun.

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Despite the wide open spaces, animals could be seen everywhere.

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IMG_1138Hartebeest

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IMG_1142Kori Bustard, Africa’s largest flying bird

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IMG_1153Black-backed Jackal

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IMG_1437Spotted Hyena

IMG_1445The Dik-Dik is a miniature antelope growing up to 17″ tall.

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Driving around the outcrops of large mounds of boulders in search of big cats, Taylor asked, “Is that real?  Or is that a sculpture carved in stone?”  What the…?  Blending in perfectly by color and shape was an elephant standing up on the hill.  Peter said he’d seen tracks leading up there before, but never actually caught the animal in the act.

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We had the good fortune of  coming upon a male and female lion in the process of courting.  They eventually mated as a half dozen trucks were parked within gawking distance.  It is unusual to see this as it isn’t necessarily mating season.

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The scene actually was double feature — lion porn to the east and the most amazing sunset to the west.

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We ended our long day at the Serengeti Wild Camp.  We had two tents that were outfitted with mosquito netted beds, private hot showers and private toilets.  As camping goes, this was true luxary.  “Glamping”, perhaps.

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Tanzania – Day 3 – Zanzibar, The Other Side

Our final full day on Zanzibar Island was upon us and we had actually left ourselves without a plan.  I guess we assumed that some jetlag recovery time would keep us settled in close to the hotel pool and beach, but that isn’t how the day went.  The night before I messaged my amateur travel agent and love of my life, Beth, for some ideas.  And as always, she came through with a good one — an ATV tour out of Kiwengwa on the other side of the island.

As always, it was very easy to hire a taxi to drive us where ever we needed to go for the day.  On the one and a half hour drive across Zanzibar’s interior, we saw the landscape change from the congested and touristy Stone Town to a more rural setting.  We had learned along the way about the islands 3 forms of industry:  Stone Town provided mostly industrial careers; the interior was predominantly for agriculture; and the coastlines were all about fishing.  Regardless, its very obvious that these people work hard to maintain any sort of living.

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Enroute we came across a couple of Polisi check points.  Normally we think of these checkpoints for drunk driving prevention, but here they put the importance on assuring your license, insurance and registration are up to date.  Our driver didn’t have a current sticker on his license plate and was expecting that they would mail him a ticket.

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Finally reaching the small village of Kiwengwa, it was time for lunch.  Dad and Taylor must have been especially hungry as they had slept through breakfast.  We were taken to a place known as Obama Beach Bar which was supposed to have really good pizza.  As far as pizza goes, it wasn’t too bad.

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This place was sandwiched between dozens of “resorts” that seem to especially cater to Italians on holiday.  I put “resorts” in parentheses because they all are a little more rustic than what I would qualify as a resort.

Hanging out at the bar and on the beach were a dozen or so Massai warriors in the traditional clothing.  Some played billiards (I should have gotten a picture) while others lounged around, but they were all very interested in our presence there.  They operated a small stand selling some handmade crafts and jewelry; certainly they wanted us to come and purchase there wares.  But they were very friendly and willing to pose for a few photos so we took some time to purchase a few items.

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Because we waited until the final hour to call to reserve our places on the ATVs, they were fully booked for the day.  “Hakuna matata” (no worries) our driver knew a local guy who could squeeze in as long as we were willing to ride two up.

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20160723_180705Connor actually drove most of the time.

Well, from what we read on Trip Advisor the original company received nothing but favorable ratings from there customers.  I don’t think the “local guy” we used was listed on trip advisor.  Our group had four machines and all were pretty much complete crap.  One Italian girl had about 4 incidences where her ATV would stall out.   And then, hers quit because a battery cable snapped which was only a short delay because the company owner and his employee (who led us on an old 150 cc motorbike) seemed to have the necessary tools and know-how to make emergency repairs.  But then we began having issues with the ATV that Connor and I were riding — the chain kept popping off the sprockets.  After about four times, the reason became apparent.  The bearings on the rear axle were completely shot.  Hakuna matata!  They had a new set of bearing and the rudimentary tools with them to fix it up.  Well after about an hour, the repair didn’t exactly work as planned so the remainder of the tour Connor and I got towed.  Honestly, I look at this setback as part of the adventure.

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20160723_171818Spectators for the repair.

The ATV tour took through 3 different villages all with different levels of tough living conditions.  Some lived in grass huts without electricity, while others were in clay houses, no water.  And then some in brick and clay.

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Despite the harsh conditions one thing was certain, the beautiful little kids made the best of the situations which they were born into.  The appreciation they had for a simple little cookie or lollipop was quite inspiring.

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20160723_180506The ride back.

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Tanzania – Day 2 – Stone Town, Zanzibar

Having finally settled in and plowing through some really good zzz’s, Taylor and I were awoken by the 5:30 am Adhan (Islamic call to prayer) being chanted over loud speakers.  I have seen and heard this though various media sources before, but never in person.  Because the nearest mosque is almost directly across the street, it was really, really loud.  If I lived here , I would probably need to convert to Islam so that I wouldn’t be pissed about being awoken in that manner everyday.  But since I am merely a tourist in search of adventure, it was pretty damn cool.

Breakfast was served from the main hotel building down the street.  My dad and I left the kids back at the apartment as they were more interested in sleep than food.  It was the typical continental breakfast, except with their own Zanzibari flare.  We enjoyed fresh mango, pineapple, passion fruit, local breads, and some “beef sausage”.  They also had the typical omelette station.  Although it was difficult to get to the regular coffee between the time it was brewed and the time it was gone, they did have a big cistern of the “local coffee”.  Served in the little shot-glass sized cups much like Turkish coffee, it was a little stronger than regular coffee but had a wonderful spiced taste with hints of cinnamon and cardamom.

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As the breakfast was pretty decent, the setting and views were quite spectacular.  With Stone Town situated on the Western side of Zanzibar Island facing the mainland, the ocean is generally quite calm here.  Along the beach are dozens of anchored small boats used for charter and fishing.

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Back in the Freddie Mercury apartment at the Freddie Mercury House we spent the rest of the morning letting the kids wake up at their own pace.  Oh… Freddie Mercury?  A little know fact, Freddie Mercury was actually born in Stone Town, Zanzibar — the locals all seem quite proud of it.  And the workers at the hotel believe that it was here, in our apartment, that he was born.

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We spent much of the day wandering the streets of Stone Town taking in the sights and fending off (or trying to) the advances of anyone with something to sell.

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We were able to find our way to a local market that was popular for locals and tourists alike.  There, we had met a friendly young gentleman (and also his cousin) who spent the next couple of hours showing us through the market and other highlights of the town.  For some reason, I was misguided into thinking they were simply being helpful and courteous, but we received a proper shakedown for cash when we were done.  In total, I think I handed them about 90,000 TZ schillings ($45), but, honestly, it was actually worth every penny.

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IMG_0603Maybe a new look for me?

I thought it was necessary to stroll through the meat and fish section of the market simply for the sensory experience.  The sights of fresh meat and fish being butchered in the stalls with flies landing on pretty much everything; it really was quite unappealing and made you appreciate such agencies as the USDA and Michigan Health Department.  And although the attack on the olfactory senses was direct and offensive, it actually was like a pleasant trip to Kroger as compared to what I have witnessed in Cambodia.

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Following the market we were led to the East African Slave Trade Exhibit.  Once again, my journeys have taken me to see some of the darker sides of humanity.  The atrocities involving slavery that have taken place here and other sights throughout the world are staggering.  We were taken down and shown the crowded cave-like slave chambers where as many as 75 people were stored for months until sold.  Many here died in of dehydration, malnutrition and disease as they were packed so tightly they would often have to lay on top each other to sleep.  To learn a little more about the East African slave trade and the exhibit click here.

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Following the tour, we worked our way back toward the hotel through narrow winding streets.   Here are a few of the things we had seen along the way:

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IMG_0646OSHA approved scaffolding?

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After a short rest up in the apartment and trip down to the beach for the 6:25 pm sunset we headed off toward one of my most anticipated attractions in Zanzibar — the Forodhani Gardens night food market.  Essentially after night fall, dozens of food vendors come out, set up their stands, and sell all kinds of local delicacies.  You could purchase skewers of chicken, beef, liver or lobster.  All are served with ‘”chips” (french fries) and a squirt of homemade ketchup and hot sauce.  We also found some of the best chicken shawarma I’d ever eaten.

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But the one thing that I had been most excited to try was what they call Zanzibar Pizza.  I certainly wouldn’t describe it as pizza, but it was really fantastic.  Its prepared by spreading out a little roll of dough; filling it with various meats, vegetables; add a little mayo and an egg; stir it all together; fold over the sides and then throw it on a hot round skillet.  Everyone of us would tell you, it was amazing!  And for dessert, they make them with Nutella, chocolate and various fresh tropical fruits.

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