Tag Archives: tanzania

Tanzania – Day 9 – Ngorongoro Crater

August 9, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra 6 Comments

Last night was exciting! Lights out around 10pm or so at the Ngorongoro Crater Wildcamp, Taylor and I lay there in silence, just listening. We could hear twigs and small brush breaking from footfalls just outside our tent. Curiosity was not going to allow us to simply lie there and fall asleep. We unzipped a couple of the windows and used the LED from an IPhone to shed a little light onto what was creeping around out there. There was movement, but no definitive identification could be made. I felt confident that it was probably something harmless as I believed that I could hear it chewing — grass perhaps. In an instant, something startled our mystery guests. Out of nothingness, about 6 or so zebras jumped and ran directly toward our tent before quickly veering away and heading back out into the darkness. Exciting, heart-pounding, to say the least. Although we were not entirely sure what spooked our herbivore friends, from the calls we could hear, I am certain they were hyenas.

The predawn hours were chilly as usual. You never really think about it being “chilly” in Africa, but at night in the higher altitudes temperatures can easily drop into the low 40’s, sometimes 30’s.

We descended into the Ngorongoro crater in the early morning. The fog had lifted off of the ground, but still served as a lid over the entire caldera. The dampness in the air helped moisten the roads and keep the dust to a minimum.

With its abundant fields of grass and some permanent water holes, the crater seemed as though it were a perfect refuge for the grazers of Tanzania. Wide open spaces giving them distant views and plenty of warning of any predators in the area.

Warthogs seem to be ever-present in Tanzania, and there was no exception in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Largely herbivores, we often find them kneeling on the forelegs rooting their snouts into the earth in search of roots and tubers.

Lions were also found throughout the park. Having no real predators here, these animals seem to feel comfortable lounging anywhere they please.

One of the most prized sightings in Africa is the Black Rhino. Nearly extinct, Peter explained, it would be difficult to find this member of the “Big 5” as there are only 17 left in the park. On this particular morning it appeared that luck and good fortune had shone upon us.

It took a lot patience to wait for the massive beast to awaken from his slumber and stand so that we could all get a good look at him. Although we were a long distance away, it was easy to be impressed by the size and stoutness of this biological tank. To allow this animal to slip into extinction would be a crime.

The habitat here was also very hospitable for many bird species, as well. We were able to get some nice shots of Tanzania’s national bird, the Crowned Crane. In addition, we got a couple of good vantage points for the flocks of pink flamingos that migrate through.

The hippos here were also in abundance. We were finally able to get pictures of more than just their backs.

Following a couple of photos along side the hippo pool with our new friend, Peter, we began the steep assent of the crater wall. A very narrow, cobblestone road, I felt quite fortunate to have an experienced driver here. One slip or mistake and it would be difficult to recover.

Leaving the Ngorongoro crater and park, my mood was a bit melancoly. Not to downplay our desire to return to our families, the only thing left was our long slog home — five flights over the next 48 hours. It really meant that, for all intents and purposes, our African adventure was coming to a close. We wouldn’t be seeing any more animals, other than cows and goats. No more lions, elephants, giraffes.

We were delivered to the Arusha Airport within a few hours of our flight back to Dar es Salaam. With a little emotion and heartfelt farewells, we said goodbye to our friend, Peter. I am happy that we live in the age of technology and the internet. Via Facebook and other social media, I am certain we will remain friends.

Having come to the close of our 5 day/4 night safari I can only provide to my friends the highest of recommendations for Agama Tours. They were affordable, knowledgeable and helpful. The accommodations they provided along the way were no less than perfect. Our guide, Peter, was phenomenal. His knowledge of the land and animals was fantastic. He knew where to go and how to get the best vantage points to see all of the animals. He was also very attentive to our needs and comforts. It certainly seemed to be his honest mission to make our safari the adventure of a lifetime. Well, he succeeded.

Tanzania, Travel

Tanzania – Day 6 – Lake Manyara National Park

August 2, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra Leave a comment

I awoke this morning around 5:15 to the crowing of roosters just outside the Fanaka Safari Lodge. Whether by rooster, alarm clock, habit, or Mohammed’s call to prayer, the five o’clock hour seems to be the only time to wake up. Not distracted by the luxury of in-room WIFI, I figured I would fall back to sleep quickly. Well after 30 minutes of staring up to the dark ceiling and listening to the increase of activity outside, I threw in the towel, pulled on some blue jeans and headed over to the dining porch in search of coffee, and I’ll admit, WIFI.

The dining porch was about a 50 yard walk past the swimming pool, through a tall steel door of a perimeter wall and down a stone and concrete walkway between the cabanas and tent area. I call it a “porch” — perhaps, veranda — because it is a covered area held by two and a half walls outside the kitchen. Connor mentioned on the night before how it would be interesting during the torrents of the rainy season. From end to end there were seven tables with chairs all of which were covered an ornate, bright lemon yellow material looking as though they’re preparing for a spring-time wedding. Along the long wall is a vestibule cut out to contain a small bar. I was disappointed to see it gated closed, and not because I was thirsty for whiskey or beer, but because the WIFI router was located in there and was in need of being switched on.

A short drive from the safari lodge our day was to be spent in the Lake Manyara National Park in search of cape buffalo, hippos and their famous “tree climbing lions”. Although these lions are the same species as those found in the grasslands of the Serengeti, their habitat of forest provides them the opportunity to climb up into the lower levels of trees and reduce their exposure to the biting flies found closer to the ground.

Entering the park and driving into the thick forest areas, we found that the baboons had a significant population here. We had the opportunity to witness a battle for dominance within a large troop.

Continuing toward the lake, the hilly, dense forest gave way to some savannah and flat grassland. It is here that many of the animals come to graze including giraffe, zebra and the cape buffalo.

Seeing magnificent animals at nearly every turn, the abundance of life seemed endless. But evidence of the brutal harshness of this wilderness was also found throughout.

Although many seem to focus on the exotic mammals found here, Tanzania is also home to many unique and colorful birds.

Southern Ground-Hornbill

Superb Starling

Red-and-Yellow Barbet

Leaving the Lake Manyara National Park, we were a little disappointed in not having encountered a hippopotamus or a “tree climbing lion”. But that served as a reminder that we are not in the city zoo. The animals here have free roam and sometimes may not want to be found. Peter assured that there was so much more in store us throughout the safari — and he did not disappoint.

Our night stay was at the Flamingo Safari Lodge in Karatu. We had arrive there a little earlier in evening to give us a little down time to rest and recharge — tomorrow was going to be another early start as we need to make the big push through the Ngorongoro Conservation Area toward the Serengeti.

Tanzania, Travel

Tanzania – Day 5 – Tarangire National Park

July 30, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra 2 Comments

This morning was another early rise. Peter, from Agama Tours, picked us up promptly at 7 am. Our vehicle, an extended Toyota Land Cruiser outfitted with a removable top and plenty of sliding windows for proper wildlife viewing. These Land Cruisers are the only vehicles tough enough for the rugged terrain of the Serengeti.

After a quick stop within the city of Arush to pick up some bottled water and other provisions, we headed out toward Tarangire National Park. The drive was a little long so we passed the time by sight-seeing, writing, sudoku and napping.

Driving west on a well paved, asphalt highway we began to see the vast open spaces of the Tanzanian grasslands. You might expect a lot of green, but because we are in the dry season all of the ground cover is a light yellowish tan broken up by sage colored shrubs and small trees. At this point, since we are still a distance from the parks, we have not yet seen any wild animals. Only frequent herds of cows usually led by a Massai teenagers.

On this first day of our safari we were joined by a good looking young couple who are out for just a 1 day excursion. Minel (Spain) and Bruna (Portugal) were a couple of medical students who are spending a month volunteering their time in local villages.

As we entered the Tarangerie National Park, the nations sixth largest national park, we were all brimming with excitement to see some real wildlife. The first animal we happened upon was a lonely old wildebeest. Wow! We took nearly a hundred pictures and joked that he had a rope holding him there just for our viewing. Peter must have been laughing inside for he knew better of what was to come.

And yes, there was so much more to come. I really was expecting most of the wildlife to be elusive and difficult to find, but that is furthest from the truth. For the next several hours, we were inundated with new and exciting scenes at every turn.

Here are some of the notable pictures of the animals and scenery as we saw them:

Young impalla

Waterbuck

Impalla

Warthogs

Female lion stalking its prey

Velvet monkey

Male and female ostrich

Baboons were always fun to watch

It was often obvious when there was something unique to see. As many as 20 or so Land Crusiers would line up to watch.

A little added adventure

Food!, Tanzania, Travel

Tanzania – Day 4 – Transition

July 30, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra Leave a comment

Today was all about getting to Arusha, the starting point for our safari. We needed to start early to catch the ferry, to catch the cab, to catch the plane. Probably one of my least favorite places in Tanzania is the ferry dock. Huge crowds. And so many people to carry so few bags. Ten thousand shillings… ten thousand shillings… ten thousand shillings for everyone! Oh, that’s not enough? Twenty thousand shillings! I later found out that I was way over-tipping. It was difficult dealing with the onslaught of “help” so early in the morning, but we managed.

After we made the crossing to Dar es Salaam (DAR) and the mainland, we found George (our first taxi driver). It was nice seeing him waiting for us because he was quite friendly and spoke really good English. As it turned out, we had more than enough time to make our transitional flight so George took us to an upper-end hotel on the peninsula for breakfast. The crepes were excellent and the views, spectacular!

Following breakfast we took a detour through one of the more impoverished neigborhoods of DAR. Unlike the slums we are used to seeing in Detroit where the streets often seem desolate, these were packed with people and activity. It is difficult to imagine the conditions that so many have actually grown accustomed to living in.

After a long day of travel, we transitioned from the coastal region of Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam to the country’s interior on the northeast side of Tanzania. Our flight out of the old, primitive airport of DAR took us to the remote airport in Arusha. Although it is within a few minutes of the cities 1.5 million people, it certainly gave the impression that we were deep within the heart of Africa. The trip was particularly unique as it was the first flight I’ve had on a commercial twin-engine turboprop airplane that was very capable of carrying 78 deodorantly deficient people. Taylor and I laughed about how some many of these passengers must have been nicknamed “Bo”.

Our final hotel before the safari was the Mount Meru Hotel, a five-star all the way — the finest in all of Arusha. We engaged in a little downtime by the pool and then a delicious dinner at one of their fine restaurants. Dad ordered the chef’s beef stew with ugali on the side. Ugali is somewhat considered a national dish in Tanzania and is often served with beef, chicken, or fish prepared in different ways. Its essentially a thick porridge made of corn meal and has the appearance and texture of a large dumpling, perhaps. It’s taste was of bland, finely ground grits and strangely reminded us of unsalted cauliflower.

We ended the evening with a lot of emotions. Taylor was feeling homesick and missed Paul; I was missing Beth. But after a little video chat with our loved ones, we had felt better.

Tanzania, Travel

Tanzania – Day 3 – Zanzibar, The Other Side

July 24, 2016 D. Chris Klompstra 8 Comments

Our final full day on Zanzibar Island was upon us and we had actually left ourselves without a plan. I guess we assumed that some jetlag recovery time would keep us settled in close to the hotel pool and beach, but that isn’t how the day went. The night before I messaged my amateur travel agent and love of my life, Beth, for some ideas. And as always, she came through with a good one — an ATV tour out of Kiwengwa on the other side of the island.

As always, it was very easy to hire a taxi to drive us where ever we needed to go for the day. On the one and a half hour drive across Zanzibar’s interior, we saw the landscape change from the congested and touristy Stone Town to a more rural setting. We had learned along the way about the islands 3 forms of industry: Stone Town provided mostly industrial careers; the interior was predominantly for agriculture; and the coastlines were all about fishing. Regardless, its very obvious that these people work hard to maintain any sort of living.

Enroute we came across a couple of Polisi check points. Normally we think of these checkpoints for drunk driving prevention, but here they put the importance on assuring your license, insurance and registration are up to date. Our driver didn’t have a current sticker on his license plate and was expecting that they would mail him a ticket.

Finally reaching the small village of Kiwengwa, it was time for lunch. Dad and Taylor must have been especially hungry as they had slept through breakfast. We were taken to a place known as Obama Beach Bar which was supposed to have really good pizza. As far as pizza goes, it wasn’t too bad.

This place was sandwiched between dozens of “resorts” that seem to especially cater to Italians on holiday. I put “resorts” in parentheses because they all are a little more rustic than what I would qualify as a resort.

Hanging out at the bar and on the beach were a dozen or so Massai warriors in the traditional clothing. Some played billiards (I should have gotten a picture) while others lounged around, but they were all very interested in our presence there. They operated a small stand selling some handmade crafts and jewelry; certainly they wanted us to come and purchase there wares. But they were very friendly and willing to pose for a few photos so we took some time to purchase a few items.

Because we waited until the final hour to call to reserve our places on the ATVs, they were fully booked for the day. “Hakuna matata” (no worries) our driver knew a local guy who could squeeze in as long as we were willing to ride two up.

Connor actually drove most of the time.

Well, from what we read on Trip Advisor the original company received nothing but favorable ratings from there customers. I don’t think the “local guy” we used was listed on trip advisor. Our group had four machines and all were pretty much complete crap. One Italian girl had about 4 incidences where her ATV would stall out. And then, hers quit because a battery cable snapped which was only a short delay because the company owner and his employee (who led us on an old 150 cc motorbike) seemed to have the necessary tools and know-how to make emergency repairs. But then we began having issues with the ATV that Connor and I were riding — the chain kept popping off the sprockets. After about four times, the reason became apparent. The bearings on the rear axle were completely shot. Hakuna matata! They had a new set of bearing and the rudimentary tools with them to fix it up. Well after about an hour, the repair didn’t exactly work as planned so the remainder of the tour Connor and I got towed. Honestly, I look at this setback as part of the adventure.

Spectators for the repair.

The ATV tour took through 3 different villages all with different levels of tough living conditions. Some lived in grass huts without electricity, while others were in clay houses, no water. And then some in brick and clay.

Despite the harsh conditions one thing was certain, the beautiful little kids made the best of the situations which they were born into. The appreciation they had for a simple little cookie or lollipop was quite inspiring.

The ride back.

Our Extraordinary Ordinary Life

Tag Archives: tanzania

Tanzania – Day 9 – Ngorongoro Crater

Tanzania – Day 6 – Lake Manyara National Park

Tanzania – Day 5 – Tarangire National Park

Tanzania – Day 4 – Transition

Tanzania – Day 3 – Zanzibar, The Other Side

Life is the Journey