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Tanzania – Day 2 – Stone Town, Zanzibar

Having finally settled in and plowing through some really good zzz’s, Taylor and I were awoken by the 5:30 am Adhan (Islamic call to prayer) being chanted over loud speakers.  I have seen and heard this though various media sources before, but never in person.  Because the nearest mosque is almost directly across the street, it was really, really loud.  If I lived here , I would probably need to convert to Islam so that I wouldn’t be pissed about being awoken in that manner everyday.  But since I am merely a tourist in search of adventure, it was pretty damn cool.

Breakfast was served from the main hotel building down the street.  My dad and I left the kids back at the apartment as they were more interested in sleep than food.  It was the typical continental breakfast, except with their own Zanzibari flare.  We enjoyed fresh mango, pineapple, passion fruit, local breads, and some “beef sausage”.  They also had the typical omelette station.  Although it was difficult to get to the regular coffee between the time it was brewed and the time it was gone, they did have a big cistern of the “local coffee”.  Served in the little shot-glass sized cups much like Turkish coffee, it was a little stronger than regular coffee but had a wonderful spiced taste with hints of cinnamon and cardamom.

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As the breakfast was pretty decent, the setting and views were quite spectacular.  With Stone Town situated on the Western side of Zanzibar Island facing the mainland, the ocean is generally quite calm here.  Along the beach are dozens of anchored small boats used for charter and fishing.

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Back in the Freddie Mercury apartment at the Freddie Mercury House we spent the rest of the morning letting the kids wake up at their own pace.  Oh… Freddie Mercury?  A little know fact, Freddie Mercury was actually born in Stone Town, Zanzibar — the locals all seem quite proud of it.  And the workers at the hotel believe that it was here, in our apartment, that he was born.

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We spent much of the day wandering the streets of Stone Town taking in the sights and fending off (or trying to) the advances of anyone with something to sell.

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We were able to find our way to a local market that was popular for locals and tourists alike.  There, we had met a friendly young gentleman (and also his cousin) who spent the next couple of hours showing us through the market and other highlights of the town.  For some reason, I was misguided into thinking they were simply being helpful and courteous, but we received a proper shakedown for cash when we were done.  In total, I think I handed them about 90,000 TZ schillings ($45), but, honestly, it was actually worth every penny.

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IMG_0603Maybe a new look for me?

I thought it was necessary to stroll through the meat and fish section of the market simply for the sensory experience.  The sights of fresh meat and fish being butchered in the stalls with flies landing on pretty much everything; it really was quite unappealing and made you appreciate such agencies as the USDA and Michigan Health Department.  And although the attack on the olfactory senses was direct and offensive, it actually was like a pleasant trip to Kroger as compared to what I have witnessed in Cambodia.

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Following the market we were led to the East African Slave Trade Exhibit.  Once again, my journeys have taken me to see some of the darker sides of humanity.  The atrocities involving slavery that have taken place here and other sights throughout the world are staggering.  We were taken down and shown the crowded cave-like slave chambers where as many as 75 people were stored for months until sold.  Many here died in of dehydration, malnutrition and disease as they were packed so tightly they would often have to lay on top each other to sleep.  To learn a little more about the East African slave trade and the exhibit click here.

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Following the tour, we worked our way back toward the hotel through narrow winding streets.   Here are a few of the things we had seen along the way:

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IMG_0646OSHA approved scaffolding?

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After a short rest up in the apartment and trip down to the beach for the 6:25 pm sunset we headed off toward one of my most anticipated attractions in Zanzibar — the Forodhani Gardens night food market.  Essentially after night fall, dozens of food vendors come out, set up their stands, and sell all kinds of local delicacies.  You could purchase skewers of chicken, beef, liver or lobster.  All are served with ‘”chips” (french fries) and a squirt of homemade ketchup and hot sauce.  We also found some of the best chicken shawarma I’d ever eaten.

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But the one thing that I had been most excited to try was what they call Zanzibar Pizza.  I certainly wouldn’t describe it as pizza, but it was really fantastic.  Its prepared by spreading out a little roll of dough; filling it with various meats, vegetables; add a little mayo and an egg; stir it all together; fold over the sides and then throw it on a hot round skillet.  Everyone of us would tell you, it was amazing!  And for dessert, they make them with Nutella, chocolate and various fresh tropical fruits.

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Tanzania – Day 1 – Arrival

The flight from Amsterdam to Nairobi was to be aboard the new Boeing 787 (the Dreamliner).  It was nice a plane, but honestly, it was just another plane filled with people of all types sharing one common thing… a lack of deodorant use.

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We arrived on the African continent with little fanfare, grandeur, shock or awe.  The touchdown at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in Nairobi was well before sunrise so there really wasn’t much to see from the plane.

With a connection to Dar es Saalam in a few hours later that morning it made no sense for us to venture outside the airport.  Besides the time constraints, we have also developed (from somewhere) an impression that Nairobi was not the safest place to be.  I believe there was a terror attack on a shopping mall a few years ago that left dozens of people dead.  Normally I might throw a little caution to the wind, but this time I feel the need to be a little more vigilant in looking after my little blonde haired princess.

Our final flight to reach Dar es Salaam was short an uneventful except for the awesome sighting of Mt. Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest mountain.  Poking through the layer of clouds, you could see all of its glory which drove the reality that we have arrived at a place where many adventures had taken place.  We will certainly find our own adventures on this trip.

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We disembarked the plane and entered the small, outdated airport with poor ventilation and air conditioning.  It was everything I would have hoped to find in an East African airport.  The VISA application process was a bit confusing, but certainly not a deterrent.  After paying our $100 per person fee, we received our VISAs , collected ALL of our luggage and headed for the exit.  Outside the airport doors was a scene much like what you’d find in any other lesser developed country.  Hundreds of taxi drivers all begging for your fare.

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We met George, our driver, who was to take us to the docks where we would take a ferry to Zanzibar.  Having 3 hours to kill we first drove to the port  to buy our tickets.  For an extra $25 per person we were able to upgrade to “Royal Class”.  Afterward, George took us to an really nice upscale hotel restaurant which probably no African could afford.  Although my usual desire is to seek out the traditional or exotic food, it was kind of nice for all of us after 2 long days of travel to choose from a typical American style menu.

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Returning to the port we were met with a swarm of young black men, all dressed in yellow florescent vests, piling up around the car vying for our business.  It was very intimidating knowing that we all had to get out and walk through the craziness.  Everyone of them wanted to carry our bags, show us the easy route, and make sure we got to the right boat.    It was insanely chaotic, and although I was feeling quite annoyed and a little overwhelmed, I didn’t really feel a sense of danger — I still kept Taylor within my reach.

Reaching the point of embarkation, we were confronted with a big problem — all of our tickets were dated for the following day.  We were told to exit the port and go back to the ticket office to exchange the tickets, but there was concern that it would take too long and that we’d miss the boat (which already had our luggage onboard).  Fortunately, we were able to convince them to allow us onboard even with the incorrectly dated tickets.  The two hour ferry ride a bit rough, but very comfortable.

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Arriving at Stone Town, Zanzibar Island, we had more confusion and more herds of people to work our way through in order to get our luggage and clear customs.  I’m not entirely certain why Zanzibar puts you through the whole immigration process as it is part of the same country of Tanzania.

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A short taxi ride through the streets of Stone Town and we’d arrived at our first hotel, The Tembo House.  After nearly 48 hours of travel, we were all ready for a place to drop our bags, a hot shower and a place to sleep horizontally.

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