Tag Archives: wildcamp

Tanzania – Day 9 – Ngorongoro Crater

Last night was exciting!  Lights out around 10pm or so at the Ngorongoro Crater Wildcamp, Taylor and I lay there in silence, just listening.  We could hear twigs and small brush breaking from footfalls just outside our tent.  Curiosity was not going to allow us to simply lie there and fall asleep.  We unzipped a couple of the windows and used the LED from an IPhone to shed a little light onto what was creeping around out there.  There was movement, but no definitive identification could be made.  I felt confident that it was probably something harmless as I believed that I could hear it chewing — grass perhaps.  In an instant, something startled our mystery guests.  Out of nothingness, about 6 or so zebras jumped and ran directly toward our tent before quickly veering away and heading back out into the darkness.  Exciting, heart-pounding, to say the least.  Although we were not entirely sure what spooked our herbivore friends, from the calls we could hear, I am certain they were hyenas.

The predawn hours were chilly as usual.  You never really think about it being “chilly” in Africa, but at night in the higher altitudes temperatures can easily drop into the low 40’s, sometimes 30’s.

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We descended into the Ngorongoro  crater in the early morning.  The fog had lifted off of the ground, but still served as a lid over the entire caldera.  The dampness in the air helped moisten the roads and keep the dust to a minimum.

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With its abundant fields of grass and some permanent water holes, the crater seemed as though it were a perfect refuge for the grazers of Tanzania.  Wide open spaces giving them distant views and plenty of warning of any predators in the area.

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Warthogs seem to be ever-present in Tanzania, and there was no exception in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.  Largely herbivores, we often find them kneeling on the forelegs rooting their snouts into the earth in search  of roots and tubers.

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Lions were also found throughout the park.  Having no real predators here, these animals seem to feel comfortable lounging anywhere they please.

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One of the most prized sightings in Africa is the Black Rhino.  Nearly extinct, Peter explained, it would be difficult to find this member of the “Big 5” as there are only 17 left in the park.  On this particular morning it appeared that luck and good fortune had shone upon us.

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It took a lot patience to wait for the massive beast to awaken from his slumber and stand so that we could all get a good look at him.  Although we were a long distance away, it was easy to be impressed by the size and stoutness of this biological tank.  To allow this animal to slip into extinction would be a crime.

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The habitat here was also very hospitable for many bird species, as well.  We were able to get some nice shots of Tanzania’s national bird, the Crowned Crane.  In addition, we got a couple of good vantage points for the flocks of pink flamingos that migrate through.

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The hippos here were also in abundance.  We were finally able to get pictures of more than just their backs.

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Following a couple of photos along side the hippo pool with our new friend, Peter, we began the steep assent of the crater wall.  A very narrow, cobblestone road, I felt quite fortunate to have an experienced driver here.  One slip or mistake and it would be difficult to recover.

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Leaving the Ngorongoro crater and park, my mood was a bit melancoly.  Not to downplay our desire to return to our families, the only thing left was our long slog home — five flights over the next 48 hours.  It really meant that, for all intents and purposes, our African adventure was coming to a close.  We wouldn’t be seeing any more animals, other than cows and goats.  No more lions, elephants, giraffes.

We were delivered to the Arusha Airport within a few hours of our flight back to Dar es Salaam.  With a little emotion and heartfelt farewells, we said goodbye to our friend, Peter.  I am happy that we live in the age of technology and the internet.  Via Facebook and other social media, I am certain we will remain friends.

Having come to the close of our 5 day/4 night safari I can only provide to my friends the highest of recommendations for Agama Tours.  They were affordable, knowledgeable and helpful.  The accommodations they provided along the way were no less than perfect.  Our guide, Peter, was phenomenal.  His knowledge of the land and animals was fantastic.  He knew where to go and how to get the best vantage points to see all of the animals.  He was also very attentive to our needs and comforts.  It certainly seemed to be his honest mission to make our safari the adventure of a lifetime.  Well, he succeeded.

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Tanzania – Day 8 – More Serengeti

(dedicated to Courtney L. for motivating me to finish this article)

The Serengeti Wild Camp is located somewhere near Seronera, but quite honestly, 100 miles from any real civilization.   Sleeping in the middle of the Serengeti was very exciting, yet quite peaceful.   No walls or fences to protect us from the predators of the night, we were completely exposed to the wilderness.  In the dark hours you could hear the activity around us.  A couple Dik-Diks wandered through the middle of our camp while making their calls that sound much like a high pitch cluck from a wild turkey.  We confirmed the animals in the morning by the deposit they’d left on the trail to the dining tent.

By daybreak, we were out again on the game drive.  It is in the earliest hours of the day that the animals are most active.  Although I find it difficult to justify ever being up so early, we were almost immediately rewarded with the most amazing sunrise.

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Taylor, who almost never wakes up this early, was also now suffering for a second day with nasty cold.  Though she really didn’t have a choice, I applaud her for toughing-it-out and making the best of the situation.  Despite feeling rough, she still got excited seeing her favorite animal, the giraffe.

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20160728_080231Baboons on the move

IMG_1310Cape Buffalo on the move

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On the hit list for today was more hippos, lions, a leopard, cheetah, and any other exotic species we happen upon.   So we move on to the hippo pools.  The hippopotamus typically emerges at night to graze on the grass of the plains before returning to their water sheds to keep cool during the day.  This morning we had found most of them already submerged back under the water.

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As I have mentioned before, the Tanzania has a plethora of exotic birds.

IMG_1262Unfortunately, I don’t know the name of this bird

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IMG_1377Kori Bustard

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IMG_1620Golden Jackal

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IMG_1406A couple of Dik-diks

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For months leading up to the trip, I’ve heard Connor talk about his favorite animal to be found in Africa, the Hyrax.  Although it looks much like a large guinea pig or rodent, the hyrax has similar teeth, toes and skull structures as the elephant.  These little animals actually share similar ancestry as the elephant.  Although, I would have never found them, Connor spotted a few throughout the day.

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The quest on most safaris is generally to encounter all of the “Big 5” animals.  The term “Big 5” was coined by big-game hunters for the animals which are typically the most difficult and dangerous to hunt on foot.  They include the elephant, rhinoceros, lion, leopard and cape buffalo.

Although not one of the “Big 5”, my favorite was another big cat, the the ever-elusive cheetah.  We had the good fortune to find one this day and he provided us a great photo shoot.

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Even with all of the other sightings on this drive, it was the lions that seemed to steal the show.  The opportunities to see these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat seemed to be endless.

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With the hours slipping away, we made the trek south back toward the Ngorongoro Crater.  Knowing everyone’s dislike for the long and dusty road that brought us into heart of the Serengeti, Peter took an alternate route that kept us far from all of the other vehicles.  The much less traveled path took though a Massai “village”, where we made a rest stop, and then along some more remote and rugged roads.  It was definitely the better route.

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We arrived at our final overnight destination the Ngorongoro Wild Camp in the early evening.  Located on the outer rim of the Crater, the camp was made up of about a dozen semi-permanent tents affixed upon stilted platforms.  They had hardwood floors and full bathrooms with ceramic tiling — again… glamping.

At check-in we ate little fried “donuts” and drank complimentary hibiscus juice.  They informed us that after dark, we were not allowed to wander without the accompaniment of a Massai warrior due to the dangerous animals that often wander through after sundown.

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This evening’s dining did not disappoint.  Via buffet, they provided, in my opinion, the best supper I’d had throughout the trip.  Although similar dishes to those thoughout the safari — tender stir fried beef, roasted chicken, rice and different vegetables — here, they were better cooked and much more flavorful.

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With full bellies and the anticipation of what we’ll see on the final day of our safari, we retired for the night.  All hope was to sleep like a well fed baby.

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