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Tanzania – Day 2 – Stone Town, Zanzibar

Having finally settled in and plowing through some really good zzz’s, Taylor and I were awoken by the 5:30 am Adhan (Islamic call to prayer) being chanted over loud speakers.  I have seen and heard this though various media sources before, but never in person.  Because the nearest mosque is almost directly across the street, it was really, really loud.  If I lived here , I would probably need to convert to Islam so that I wouldn’t be pissed about being awoken in that manner everyday.  But since I am merely a tourist in search of adventure, it was pretty damn cool.

Breakfast was served from the main hotel building down the street.  My dad and I left the kids back at the apartment as they were more interested in sleep than food.  It was the typical continental breakfast, except with their own Zanzibari flare.  We enjoyed fresh mango, pineapple, passion fruit, local breads, and some “beef sausage”.  They also had the typical omelette station.  Although it was difficult to get to the regular coffee between the time it was brewed and the time it was gone, they did have a big cistern of the “local coffee”.  Served in the little shot-glass sized cups much like Turkish coffee, it was a little stronger than regular coffee but had a wonderful spiced taste with hints of cinnamon and cardamom.

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As the breakfast was pretty decent, the setting and views were quite spectacular.  With Stone Town situated on the Western side of Zanzibar Island facing the mainland, the ocean is generally quite calm here.  Along the beach are dozens of anchored small boats used for charter and fishing.

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Back in the Freddie Mercury apartment at the Freddie Mercury House we spent the rest of the morning letting the kids wake up at their own pace.  Oh… Freddie Mercury?  A little know fact, Freddie Mercury was actually born in Stone Town, Zanzibar — the locals all seem quite proud of it.  And the workers at the hotel believe that it was here, in our apartment, that he was born.

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We spent much of the day wandering the streets of Stone Town taking in the sights and fending off (or trying to) the advances of anyone with something to sell.

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We were able to find our way to a local market that was popular for locals and tourists alike.  There, we had met a friendly young gentleman (and also his cousin) who spent the next couple of hours showing us through the market and other highlights of the town.  For some reason, I was misguided into thinking they were simply being helpful and courteous, but we received a proper shakedown for cash when we were done.  In total, I think I handed them about 90,000 TZ schillings ($45), but, honestly, it was actually worth every penny.

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IMG_0603Maybe a new look for me?

I thought it was necessary to stroll through the meat and fish section of the market simply for the sensory experience.  The sights of fresh meat and fish being butchered in the stalls with flies landing on pretty much everything; it really was quite unappealing and made you appreciate such agencies as the USDA and Michigan Health Department.  And although the attack on the olfactory senses was direct and offensive, it actually was like a pleasant trip to Kroger as compared to what I have witnessed in Cambodia.

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Following the market we were led to the East African Slave Trade Exhibit.  Once again, my journeys have taken me to see some of the darker sides of humanity.  The atrocities involving slavery that have taken place here and other sights throughout the world are staggering.  We were taken down and shown the crowded cave-like slave chambers where as many as 75 people were stored for months until sold.  Many here died in of dehydration, malnutrition and disease as they were packed so tightly they would often have to lay on top each other to sleep.  To learn a little more about the East African slave trade and the exhibit click here.

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Following the tour, we worked our way back toward the hotel through narrow winding streets.   Here are a few of the things we had seen along the way:

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IMG_0646OSHA approved scaffolding?

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After a short rest up in the apartment and trip down to the beach for the 6:25 pm sunset we headed off toward one of my most anticipated attractions in Zanzibar — the Forodhani Gardens night food market.  Essentially after night fall, dozens of food vendors come out, set up their stands, and sell all kinds of local delicacies.  You could purchase skewers of chicken, beef, liver or lobster.  All are served with ‘”chips” (french fries) and a squirt of homemade ketchup and hot sauce.  We also found some of the best chicken shawarma I’d ever eaten.

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But the one thing that I had been most excited to try was what they call Zanzibar Pizza.  I certainly wouldn’t describe it as pizza, but it was really fantastic.  Its prepared by spreading out a little roll of dough; filling it with various meats, vegetables; add a little mayo and an egg; stir it all together; fold over the sides and then throw it on a hot round skillet.  Everyone of us would tell you, it was amazing!  And for dessert, they make them with Nutella, chocolate and various fresh tropical fruits.

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